Tom Cochrane - "Life is a Highway"

Life's like a road that you travel on
When there's one day here and the next day gone
Sometimes you bend sometimes you stand
Sometimes you turn your back to the wind
There's a world outside every darkened Door
Where blues won't haunt you anymore
Where the brave are free and lovers soar
Come ride with me to the distant shore

We won't hesitate break down the garden gate
There's not much left today

Life is a highway
I want to ride it all night long
If you're going my way
I want to drive it all night long

- Tom Cochrane - "Life is a Highway"

Day 43 / 44: Manitowaning - Owen Sound
166 kms

I woke up at 4:30am to the sound of sleeping bag zippers unzipping, clinking of poles and the ‘sssssssssssssss’ sound of air being released out of about 35 thermarests all at once. Today we had a super early start as we were heading to Tobermory and, for the triatheletes, on to Owen Sound. We had to catch the Ferry to Tobermory by 9:10am and the truck had to be loaded by 7am. I had organised my clothes the previous evening so jumping into them and taking down my tent didn’t take too much brainpower – a plus at that ungodly hour of the morning..! Our crew was on Galley Duty so we served breakfast and then loaded the truck for 6:55am – right on time and on schedule. This then gave us about 2 hours to cycle the 40kms to the Ferry in South Baymouth.

Everyone was in a great mood in spite of the early start as it was a short day for most people – 40kms and then a relaxing afternoon post-ferry. For those participating in the triathalon the following day the mood was somewhat different. There were A LOT of jokes and even more laughs but a sense of nervousness did overshadow the day. We had originally entered the triathalon as a bit of fun but we suddenly were caught up in stories about strategy, swimmers being kicked in the head, bikers being disqualified for drafting, and runners with terrible leg strains which would eventually affect the rest of the bike trip… What on earth had we gotten ourselves into?! I must admit, I was incredibly nervous particularly because I knew that Graham would do a fantastic job on the bike, Eve would run a speedy 5km and I would have to start out with a very strong 750m swim to give our team the advantage… unfortunately however I have not swum 750m of front crawl for about 10 (??!) years..!!

The cycle out to South Baymouth was very scenic – Manitoulin Island has stunning scenery and I like the hills as they are sufficiently ‘rolling’ to give you enough speed on the downhill to get up the uphill and get into a nice rhythm. We breezed through the 40kms to South Baymouth and cruised into the ‘Chi-Cheemaun’ (sp!!) docking area. We officially kick started the morning at 8:45am with a coffee and butter pecan tart whilst sitting in the sun and watching the cars line up eager to pull into the waiting ferry. We were able to pull out right in front of everyone. I could see the drivers of the cars jealously eyeing the 40 bikes cruising happily into the belly of the waiting ship and we were the first in line for the Chi-Cheemaun Ferry breakfast which was dominated by mass caffeine intake to counter the early morning start.

The gentle rocking of the boat combined with our full stomachs soon had everyone lethargic and yawning. Graham, Eve and I received some coaching from Peter who is a professional marathon trainer and has participated in a number of triathalons and similar sorts of athletic competitions. We also used the time to instil fear into Brendan, Andrew and Yao… the psychological warfare had officially begun. By the time the ferry pulled into the dock in Tobermory we were all exhausted and I found it difficult to get motivated to bike the next 130kms to Owen Sound given that by the time we got out of the ship it was already about 11:30am.

James, a TdC vet who has joined the 2008 group was the original sign-up to the Owen Sound triathalon. He then spoke with Erik from the French Connection who felt suitably inspired and decided to sign up which prompted a chain of entrants. When our group separated from the ‘Rest Day’ group at the Tobermory dock I looked around to see the remaining group of athletes – Laura and Wing (duathalon), James and Erik (triathalon) and Andrew, Brendan, Yao, Eve, Graham and myself (team triathalon) and John (team supporter and cheerleader). A fantastic group of people and I looked forward to sharing in this experience with them. Everyone was a bit nervous because for most of us this was our first triathalon and had no idea what to expect.

We pulled off onto Highway 6 which deserves a mention in this blog as the ‘Number 1 most dangerous highway’ that we’ve been on so far in the trip. Perhaps this is a bit of a sweeping generalization as it was a Saturday of a Long Weekend but there was A LOT of reckless traffic, absolutely no shoulder and huge potholes along the side of the road. It was extremely tedious riding as you had to be 120% aware of what was going on all around you – in front, behind and beside. Having said that, we cycled a brilliant 100kms averaging about 29kms / hour into Wiarton (the home of Wiarton Willy, the groundhog http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiarton_Willie) with only 1 stop for sunscreen application. We had one particularly close encounter with a giant black SUV which was trying to overtake in the oncoming lane and we are still uncertain whether he did, in fact, see us in the oncoming lane with a car overtaking us… we all swerved into the gravel and breathed a HUGE sigh of relief as the truck flew past us and we escaped unscathed and only half of my life flashed in front of my eyes. Similar incidents were reported with campers and trucks… nothing makes your knuckles go white on your hoods like the sound of screeching tires coming from behind.

In Wiarton we stopped at a fantastic restaurant called, ‘The Three Friends’ which served home made ‘Monte Cristo’ sandwiches, fantastic soups and salads as well as lasagne in a cute little converted mansion house on the Main Street. It was such a HUGE relief to be able to sit down and relax and laugh about what we’d been through now that we felt a bit safer. As usual, a lot of laughs were had by all and a series of practical jokes ensued – the highlight of which involved some electrical tape and Andrew’s helmet…. Following our meal we all popped out to enjoy an ice-cream at a restaurant which James had highly recommended – a new little shop which had recently opened called, ‘Northern Confections’. I often wonder what the small town shop owners think when they are suddenly invaded by between 15 – 39 hungry, lycra and spandex clad cyclists. I can imagine that it is slightly overwhelming.

James then took over the drivers seat position for the group and led the way as we cycled a 30km stretch on a lovely series of back roads into Owen Sound. It’s his neck of the woods so he was familiar with the roads and the route which was nice. The road was relatively quiet and well paved which was SUCH a refreshing change from the previous highway experience. The day had been quite a hot and sunny one so by this time it was about 4pm and things had started to cool down a bit and the trees lining the road did provide us with some shade. It was a great ride into Owen Sound which I did my best to enjoy in spite of triathalon nerves. Our final destination after a few pit stops was James’ parents place just outside of Owen Sound. He had kindly arranged our entire evenings itinerary including a ‘clean up’ at his parents and then dinner at Boston Pizza and then sleeping at a friends cabin. Enroute to James parents place was the triathalon bike course so we checked that out as well. A nice rolling ride with one challenging hill (which was a breeze for us pros and provided a great opportunity to pass the less experienced cyclists and gain precious seconds). It was good to see it and great for Graham, Yao, Erik, Laura, Wing and James to see what they were up against.

James parents house was gorgeous – right on the Owen Sound Bay with a fantastic swimming area. It was strange to be in an actual ‘home’ for the first time in 43 days..! James’ parents were so incredibly sweet – towels and soap were laid out ready for everyone and they’d also organised three cars to take us all into town post shower for dinner. James’ Mom even offered to do our laundry..! It was total 5-star treatment. We washed and cleaned up in the Bay and I tried on my wet suit for the first time. I am pleased to report that it fit..!! We piled into the cars and headed off to the Owen Sound Boston Pizza for dinner with the gang which totally hit the spot. I sat across from James sister, Lee, who is an incredibly inspiring and strong woman. It was lovely to be surrounded by such wonderful people. I had a huge delicious chunk of lasagne for dinner as part of my slow-release carb-boosting diet. I hoped that it would provide a good base for the triathalon the following day and did my best to stay away from the beer as couldn’t imagine that it would help with my fitness level – for a change..! I keep telling myself that the triathalon is just for fun but at the same time I can’t help but feel nervous. I guess that this is all part of the competition and part of the experience.

We spent the night in James’ friends cabin which was incredibly rustic and absolutely gorgeous. It was in the countryside and away from everything – no trains, no cars, no lights – just total peace and quiet with a sea of stars outside. Stunning. It was a real, ‘This is why I love Canada’ moment. The cabin was a ‘log cabin’ style with electricity and an outhouse. It was such a charming place and it felt like we’d just stepped back about 50 years in time. There were beds and floor space for all of us and it was not long before everyone was passed out and fast asleep after quite a few laughs as we chatted between bedrooms. By this stage I was even too tired to be nervous for the day ahead..!

Van Morrison - "Into the Mystic"

We were born before the wind
Also younger than the sun
Ere the bonnie boat was won as we sailed into the mystic
Hark, now hear the sailors cry
Smell the sea and feel the sky
Let your soul and spirit fly into the mystic

- Van Morrison - "Into the Mystic"

Massey to Manitowaning – Day 42
111 kms / 69 miles

A heavy dew had settled over the campground overnight but the sky was relatively clear with some tufts of clouds dotted over the blue sky. Today was the day we cycled to Manitoulan Island, the largest island in the world surrounded by fresh water. I was very much looking forward to the ride in spite of those ominous words on the cue sheets, ‘…but terrain is hilly past Espanola and it will not be an easy ride.’ In spite of this I did manage to enjoy a fantastic breakfast of pancakes served by Galley Crew 5 and got my tent and bike ready in record time. I was ready by 7:15 and cycled out with Andrew and Ian with the mission of heading straight to the Tim Hortons rumoured to be in Espanola. The sun was burning the fog which was lifting from the lake outside of Massey and it was incredibly picturesque. Fortunately Peter had his GPS handy and saved us from veering into the wrong direction..!

The road into Espanola was not busy as we avoided Route 17 – I think 3 cars passed us over the course of the 29kms into Espanola. It was easy riding, smooth terrain which led us past several farms and giant rolls of hay. Very relaxing and a nice start to the day.!

The rumour of a Tim Hortons proved to be true and we pulled up to meet up with Dave and Brendan who had also just arrived (they’d taken several wrong turns along the way as well in spite of an attempt at an early start). Ned and Dennis were already there and over the course of the following 15 minutes about 30 lycra-clad cyclists had pretty much taken over the restaurant and were eating up a storm even though it was only about an hour after our breakfast. I am now officially addicted to the Timmy’s bacon breakfast sandwich with a honey cruller donut and a medium vanilla coffee.

It did not take long for the terrain to change outside of Espanola – about .5kms to be exact..! I am learning that many towns and cities strategically locate themselves either at the top of a hill or at the bottom of one and in this case, Espanola is at the bottom of a very steep hill. The following 40 kms between Espanola and the bridge to Manitoulan Island were hilly but the hills were actually enjoyable. I do approach a ‘hills’ day with some caution but am learning to ‘enjoy’ them and see the more difficult terrain as an opportunity to work on building up my strength and keep a consistent pace. Cycling with Brendan, Andrew and Ian definitely helps as they are stronger than I am but I can feel myself slowly keeping pace by spinning and, more importantly, working on my gear shifting. It seems so much easier now than it did back in British Columbia..! The scenery also changed and the steep granite cliffs were replaced by limestone and the dense forests became more ‘scrubby’ the closer we got to Manitoulan Island. It was a great ride, very enjoyable made even better by the great weather.

The bridge to Manitoulan Island was open when we arrived which was interesting to see. It looked like quite an old bridge which had been surfaced with wood. When it’s open the cars all have to stop but the bicycles can go ahead to the very front and see the mechanics of the bridge as well as the boats coming through the channel which appears to be about 50 feet below. It takes about 15 minutes for the bridge cycle from open (to boats) to close. Given we’d made some excellent time between Espanola and the Bridge the rest was a blessing in disguise..!

On the other side of the bridge was a fantastic icecream shop which sold about 50 different flavours of icecream. Manitoulan Island was certainly looking good so far..! Needless to say we all filled our stomachs trying desperately to forget that we had another 30kms left to cycle and one humungous hill to climb. We were like kids in a candy store with our waffle cones, triple scoops, mixed flavours of Tiger Tail, Moosetracks, Caramel, Black Cherry, Mint chocolate chip, Cookies ‘n Cream, Heavenly Hash, Brownie…. Just to name a few..!

Break over, Brendan, Dave and I continued on into camp as it was our Galley Duty and I was keen to get a swim and shower in prior to my dinner duties. Andrew and the French Connection headed into town to have lunch and chill for an extra hour or so. The ride to camp was a smooth one but a very hilly one – particularly one hill which was called the ‘5 mile hill’ and it felt about 5 miles in the sun..! These are the days when I am thankful to have 2 bottles of spare Gatoraid handy on my bike. The highlight of the climb however was a spectacular view from a cliff on the north edge of the island and overlooking Lake Huron. It was a clear day and you could see for what seemed like miles and miles. It reminded me a bit of the Caribbean..!

The final section of the route past Little Current was relatively flat but the pavement had a giant ‘ripple crack’ in it about every 3 feet which made for a ‘vibrating’ ride. It was made even more challenging thanks to a headwind that certainly kept me feeling my legs. I was definitely happy to see the sign which marked the entrance into our lovely campsite.

The truck was unloaded and I went through the usual setting up ritual which ended with a swim in the lake. The water was warm and refreshing as the afternoon was getting hot – ah, how I have missed Canadian (particularly Ontario!) summers..! The heat is draining when you are on your bicycle but it is incredibly comforting post ride when you are sat relaxed with a cold drink in hand. I am always relieved when I have this moment and I must admit I do need this moment to fully appreciate the day. Unfortunately I am not yet sure how far 750meters is yet so while I did splash around in the water for about 15 minutes wearing goggles I still have no idea how I should pace myself for the Triathalon which is now only 2 days away. Yikes..!

We had some subs to help out with the Galley Crew and made a wonderful chicken stir fry – Dave is a fantastic and inventive chef and a master in the camp kitchen. We made tonnes of food and it was actually finished – everyone was full and happy which is always a huge achievement as the ability to fill 40 hungry cyclists’ stomachs is never an easy task. I enjoy Galley Duty but am always happy when it is over and everything is cleaned up and organized for the next group. I claimed the honour of being the eager volunteer to lick the chocolate bowl clean.

Tomorrow morning we are boarding the ferry to Tobermory which leaves at 9:10am and we have about 40 kms to cycle beforehand which means that our crew won’t be serving a hot breakfast in the morning and everyone has to be up and organized with the truck completely packed by 7am. I am curious to see how it will go and hope that everyone is able to make it in time. 2 hours to cover 40kms is doable as long as the traffic isn’t too bad and as long as there are no major breakdowns etc. I am keeping my fingers crossed that my tires do not use tomorrow as the day to decide to spring a leak..! The ferry is only 1 hour and 45 minutes.

Under ‘normal’ conditions tomorrow would be a ‘half rest day’ (40kms) but as our Triathalon is in Owen Sound, another 100 kms, we are continuing on and will use Sunday (the day of the Triathalon) as our rest day. It’s a bit crazy and I am 100% positive that tomorrow will be a long and knackering day but hopefully it will all run smoothly and we’ll arrive safe and sound and ready for the big event on Sunday.

Velvet Underground - "Ride Into The Sun"

Looking for another place
Somewhere else to be
Looking for another chance
To ride into the sun

-Velvet Underground - "Ride Into The Sun"

Thessalon to Massey – Day 41
130 kms / 80 miles

It is always a treat to start the day mosquito free and the campground in Massey provided that pleasure. I’m not sure if it was because we were so close to Lake Huron or whether it was because of the wind or because it was the end of July – whatever the reason, our mosquito free French Toast breakfast was wonderful. Sheer bliss. I love mosquito free southern Ontario. It was a ‘pink sky’ morning which made me a bit nervous but I didn’t really care – the sheer joy associated with the lack of mosquitoes certainly overshadowed any apprehension I had about starting the day and the possibility of rain.

Today was, in a nutshell, an easy riding day and a nice break from some of the more challenging long days we’ve had over the past week. It was fun because there were ‘services’ (eg. Villages with restaurants / gas stations etc.) along the way where we could stop and rest. The villages also provide excellent markers for distances as often they are signposted along the road. Hotels, motels and restaurants are also often advertised which provide us cyclists with plenty to read which is always a treat – particularly if the cyclist is good at multi tasking.

We started out the day by cycling through Thessalon which has as its home one of the “Top 10 Places in Canada to Eat” – we didn’t stop there as we’d already had our French Toast fill earlier that morning.

The road conditions were less than ideal as there was a very, very narrow shoulder (sometimes even non existent) and the traffic was made up of a lot of families taking a Winnibego out for the first time. This is the traffic a cyclist has to be aware of – often the giant traveling campers are rentals and the drivers are inexperienced and have no conception of how ‘wide’ their load is. Campers (with the giant rental stickers on the sides) as well as the Budget moving trailers (attached behind cars) are also vehicles to be especially wary of. Ironically it’s the transports and giant trucks which are the most careful and attentive.

We made a stop at Blind River at the 58kms mark for a Timmy’s – I am pretty sure that the entire population of Blind River decided to have a coffee at that very moment as the line seemed to go out the door..! It was a nice morning stop and great to catch up with everyone over a morning coffee. Brendan, Andrew, Ian and I cycled together and made good time. I find the day seems to go by so much faster when we make little rest stops every 20kms or so and this particular Timmy’s fit well in our stopping routine. It also provides an excellent opportunity to fill water bottles etc.

The terrain was relatively flat with some hills but everything was manageable. We also had the advantage of a wonderful tail wind blowing from the North West which certainly aided our average speed of 28.5kms / hour for the day. We passed through Spanish at about 1 pm – an interesting town especially as tomorrow we will pass through a town called, ‘Espanola’… I wonder what the link is between the two towns..!

Our campground was clean and easy to find just outside of Massey. We got in very early (2pm) so I had plenty of time for laundry, setting up and organising my tent and getting caught up on my blog. I hate rushing but arriving at camp at a reasonable hour certainly does have its advantages..!

The campground was lovely and our campsite was set between a stand of tall pine trees. The needles from the trees provided a soft bed for our tents. Unfortunately however the Park was in the midst of a regeneration programme so we had to set up tents in the grassy field outside of the pine stands. Adjacent to the campground was a lovely river with some waterfalls… unfortunately it wasn’t suitable for my triathalon swim training so I worked on the mental aspect of the swim which is apparently also part of the process. I actually prefer thinking about the swim more than actually doing it.

It was Laura’s birthday so we all joined in and sang over giant slabs of chocolate cake lathered in white icing after a wonderful meal of chilli. I was exhausted and very happy to crawl into my tent that evening at around 8:30pm. It took a whole of .5 seconds to fall asleep.

Sheryl Crow - "All I Wanna Do" - Goulais River to Thessalon – Day 40

All I wanna do is have some fun
I got a feeling Im not the only one
All I wanna do is have some fun
Until the sun comes up over Santa Monica Boulevard...

- Sheryl Crow "All I wanna do"

Spirit of the West - "Home for a Rest"

The gas heater's empty, it's damp as a tomb
The spirits we drank now ghosts in the room
I'm knackered again, come on sleep take me soon
And don't lift up my head 'till the the twelve bells at noon

- Spirit of the West - "Home for a Rest"

Rest Day – Sault Ste. Marie – Day 39

Blueberry Hill was not exactly a bustling metropolis and thus provided plenty of peace and quiet for a great nights sleep. The forecast had originally been quite negative (rain!) but the sun magically appeared this morning and there was nothing but blue sky overhead. The campground was quite isolated so we decided to head up the famed ‘Mile Hill’ and cycle the 30kms into Sault Ste. Marie and stay there for the evening. The strategy was a good one as it would allow us to sleep in and also shave off 30kms from the following day. We did a quick survey of those interested in making the journey and there were 12 brave souls – we nicknamed ourselves ‘The Dirty Dozen’.

The terrain into Sault Ste. Marie was lovely – rolling hills and a great shoulder on the highway made for easy riding. The traffic was also very friendly and accommodating with loads of friendly ‘honks’ and the occasional wave. It was fun to be cycling ‘on our own time’ rather than trying to get to a specific destination with the ultimate goal of setting up camp as soon as possible. It was like we were on our own, set free, and off radar for a day. It’s strange how sheltered and in our own little world we’ve all become. I didn’t even know what day of the week it was this morning and had to ask Graham to check his fancy high tech watch….! It was a Tuesday but it felt like a Saturday because it was like ‘weekend’.

I was surprised to see that Sault Ste. Marie actually has a population of 75,000 and looked forward to all of the luxuries provided by a city of this size – namely, Tim Hortons, a mall for misc shopping, a movie theatre for evening entertainment, an array of restaurants. A diner for breakfast is also always a treat. Sault Ste. Marie certainly did deliver in those respects. We hadn’t booked a hotel so came in a bit on a whim but were lucky that Bob, who was the most organized of the Dirty Dozen, had done some reconnaissance and booked a Travelodge in the downtown core. Fortunately there was still vacancy at the hotel and we all decided that it would be perfect and piled into 4 rooms on the 1st floor – even the bikes made it up. Wow. This was the first time in about 39 days that I have had all my creature comforts at my fingertips – a tv, clean white (!!) towels, a shower you can stand in without wearing flip flops, clean sheets with a pillow that doesn’t smell of damp… Bliss..! I was liking ‘real world’ again and felt as though I was seeing ‘city life’ with new eyes and an entirely new perspective.

We showered and met at ‘old faithful’ – good ol’ Tim Hortons to ‘make a plan’ which involved library, bike shop and doing something educational. After devouring several donuts and a coffee we went our separate ways and headed into the Soo. I wandered the streets with Ian and we eventually ended up at the library where we were met by a friendly receptionist who gave us some ‘internet time’ and then I headed out to the Bushplane Museum with Bob.

I’d never heard of the Bushplane Museum (http://www.bushplane.com)before but was very pleased that I’d made the visit as it was a very interesting museum and the planes and movies were very well presented. The key highlight for me was about ‘The Beaver’ which is considered to be one of the top 10 Canadian Engineering Achievements of the 20th century..! The DeHaviland Beaver was revolutionary to global bushplane aviation and continues to operate in 50 different countries, 7 continents and pole to pole even though the last Beaver to roll off of the production line was in the mid 1960s. Other highlights of the museum were replicas of aviation control rooms and also information on the history of bushplane fire fighting.

The Dirty Dozen met back at the Travelodge for 5pm and according to plan headed straight out to the Docks for dinner. It was a gorgeous clear and warm evening and we sat outside around the table overlooking the Edison building (US) and a giant Moose (which Ian thought was a camel), sharing several pitchers of beer and having a laugh. The French Connection and Andrew all bought ‘toques’ at the bike and ski shop and were showing them off. The sky was dark and rainy over Sault Ste. Marie’s sister city in the US but the sun continued to shine over us for most of the evening. Our waiter was very patient with us considering that it is never an easy task to satisfy the appetites of 12 hungry bikers trying to make the most of their ‘Rest Day’..! I am fairly sure that the waiter had also never seen 12 plates of a main course and then dessert licked so cleanly. I had a fantastic burger topped off with a brownie with icecream for dessert – delicious..! By the time we finished dinner the rain which had been pouring down in the US had migrated over to Canadian soil (we had, in the meantime migrated to the inside of the restaurant for dinner!) so we walked back in the direction of the hotel in the aftermath of the shower. Unfortunately ‘Step Brother’ was Sold Out at the movies so we all headed to bed for an early night. A fantastic and productive rest day and I was very pleased to have joined the gang on the field trip to Sault Ste. Marie..!

Fats Domino - "I Found My Thrill on Blueberry Hill"

I found my thrill

On Blueberry Hill...

- Fats Domino - "I Found My Thrill on Blueberry Hill"

Lake Superior Provincial Park - Goulais River
170kms / 105 miles

The mosquito swatting dance was in full swing by the time I emerged from my tent this morning. An omelette was on the grill and I quickly packed my damp tent into the ‘dry’ bag keen for an early start to a long day on the road – 170kms which is a long one and required some organization – plenty of peanut butter sandwiches and also plenty of water for the journey. We had ended yesterdays ride into Lake Superior Provincial Park with some hills which was a taster of what lay ahead for the day – more rolling hills in the park but some beautiful scenery and views along the way. While I still find hills a challenge, I do constantly keep reminding myself that ‘what goes up must come down’ and I take time out to really ‘soak up’ the downhills so that I can appreciate the pain that I went through in getting up the hill..!

The morning flew by and Andrew and I covered about 40kms before I even realised it. The hills also help pass the time as while your average speed going up the uphills seems to go down, it balances out because the average speed on the downhills is between 35 – 40+kms / hour. Oftentimes the momentum from the downhill can be used to get well into the next uphill. It is a strategy and the gear shifting involved has certainly given my wrist it’s life and strength back as I hop between my big cog and my small cog. The weather also cooperated as we had a lovely tailwind to compliment the sun throughout the morning which sometimes seemed to carry us from one hill to the next. It was one of the first times on this trip that I can definitely say that I feel like I’ve improved and am certainly building up the strength required to make the kilometres pass more quickly and with considerable less effort than it had before.

Andrew and I stopped off at the lovely Elizabeth Cove where we met up with John, Dave, Lani, Thomas and Andrea. Elizabeth Cove is a lovely sheltered beach area still within Lake Superior Provincial Park. It felt as though we were standing on the beach of the ocean in the Caribbean with the rays of the sun bouncing off of the water which seemed to sparkle like diamonds glittering in the sun. It was nice to have a break and enjoy the scenery and plan our next stop. The Pictographs in Agawa Rock were recommended in our Notes but we decided to ‘play it by ear’ to see whether we’d make the 3km side trip plus 500 meter hike to see them.

We were then faced by a huge set of hills which drained me of quite a lot of energy and so I decided to have a ‘water break’ just outside of the Pictograph entrance. We then decided to reward ourselves for the fact that we rather gracefully had conquered the uphill section and took the side trip down to Agawa Rock. (http://www.northernontario.com/index.aspx?l=0,1,3,16,114,155

The Pictographs were cool and whilst they did require some rather precarious hiking in bicycle shoes (down a steep and slippery rocky cliff) it was well worth the effort. I was thankful that we’d decided to make the stop. Sometimes I find that I get so intent on finishing the day and getting my tent set up and my journal entry written that I forget that this trip is also meant to be relaxing as well as educational. Stops like these are what I will definitely remember most about my summer adventure.

Following the Pictographs we looked forward to what had been rumoured to be a 3km downhill. There was about 6kms of uphill (although it felt like about 20!) before we hit the downhill but we did eventually get there..! This also marked the end of Lake Superior Provincial Park. I have learned that Lake Superior terrain provides some fantastic views prior to being rewarded with a great downhill but unfortunately Lake Superior terrain also provides some huge and unexpected wind gusts which counter the tail wind so the wind seems to come at you from all directions and swirl around. It can take between 5 – 10kms / hour off (at least!) your downhill speed and make it feel much less… exhilarating. The 3km downhill was great but if the wind had been in our favour then it would have been comparable to some of our downhills in the Rockies. The road was also a bit tricky as at the end of one of the steep sections coming off of the downhill out of the park was an 80 degree turn which could be a hair raising experience if a transport had been coming down at the same time as the cyclist. Dark rubber wheel marks in the asphalt told me that a lot of trucks do really have to yank on their steering wheels to make the hills closing bend.

We made a well deserved pit stop at the top of a huge hill outside of Montreal River where I finally had my coffee and devoured a bag of ‘Bits and Bites’. Andrew also bought one of the best Oatmeal cookies I’ve had in ages and ages – good ballast for the remaining 80kms left in the day. Here we met up with Andrea and Thomas with whom we continued to cycle for the rest of the afternoon. Andrew made the mistake of confiding in Andrea and Thomas that he had started to nickname me ‘The Fox’ as I used to be a ‘Rabbit’ but now I am in a ‘hunting’ mode looking to overtake cars and cyclists and anything that dares to venture into my path. It was a bit of a bold statement to make to Andrea and Thomas as they are both extremely strong cyclists and they are always together (they’re actually on their honeymoon..!!). We confided in them our strategy in overtaking and their eyes suddenly lit with an air of competition… They quietly slipped out of the restaurant while Andrew and I got ready to go. Suddenly we realised that they were trying to get away and a mad 40km overtaking race soon kicked off. We raced Andrea and Thomas up and down the rolling hills, around sharp bends, past the tall granite cliffs… every time it looked like we would overtake them then you could see Andrea pull out in front of Thomas or Thomas pull out in front of Andrea and they’d draft off each other for speed and pull ahead of us. It was hilarious and I am certain that they could hear us giggling behind them just as loudly as we could hear them. It made the 40kms pass very quickly and provided us with a much needed distraction from the long day.

We rested at the ‘Canadian Carver’ (just past Pancake Bay) which Andrew (a Kenyan educated in the ‘Queens English’) thought was going to be a huge restaurant which served Sunday roast (which is what a ‘carvery’ is in England). He was devastated to learn that in Canada ‘carver’ does actually mean ‘wood carver’ and discovered this upon walking into the restaurant expecting to be met with the sweet scent of horseradish, roasted meat and dumplings but instead found saw dust, totem pole carvings and wind chimes… He confided in Thomas that while he was disappointed about the carvery mistake at least there was the promise of 'strippers in a mall near to the campground that evening..' At this point we also had to break the news to Andrew that in Canada you would have a better chance of buying plastic gnomes for your front yard than strippers in a strip mall. Apparently they don’t have ‘strip malls’ in England… and if they do, they’re certainly not called ‘strip malls’. Poor Andrew, all this was nearly too much for him to take in for the final 30 kms into camp. Needless to say, he would not be finding his thrill on Blueberry Hill..!!

I always struggle with the last 30kms particularly on long days and today was no exception. The cloud which had been trailing us all afternoon finally managed to catch up with us and threatened rain. The gusts coming off the lake also made it a lot cooler and gave us a bit of a headwind. I was definitely tired and looked forward to the campground and the opportunity to rest. We had a good laugh in the final stretch and when we saw the Goulais River sign we knew we were nearly there.

The Blueberry Hill campground was nice – it was more RV oriented but we had a huge field in which we could pitch our tent and the washroom / shower facilities were excellent. Unfortunately, for a rest day it was rather isolated and nothing was especially walkable except for the infamous ‘strip mall’ which was 2kms away. It also didn’t have a wireless internet connection which is what the Rest Days generally have allowed me to do – catch up on my blogging..! BUT, having said that we had a relaxing evening and I fell asleep in my tent at around 8:30 -- an early night after a great day of cycling. I looked forward to tomorrow's Rest Day and our 'off piste' trip to Sault Ste. Marie..!

ABBA - "Super Trouper"

Tonight the Super trouper lights are gonna find me
Shining like the sun
Smiling, having fun
Feeling like a number one

- Abba - "Super Trouper"


Day 37: White Lake – Lake Superior Provincial Park
163kms / 101 miles

I was definitely a ‘Super Trouper’ today as I managed to endure all of the things that set a recreational cyclist apart from a ‘hard core’ and obsessed cyclist – wind, rain, bugs, cold, cloud…. (just to name a few..!)

The pitter patter of rain on a tent can sound quite soothing in the morning but it is less soothing when you consider that you have to get up, pack a damp tent, dress in damp clothes, eat breakfast and prepare your bike in the next 1.5 hours… and it’s only 5:30am. All the while, about a trillion giant hungry mosquitoes are outside of the tent waiting for breakfast. Inside the tent are a million black flies – about .06cm in length and the most viscious little bugs I’ve ever seen. Last night while I was asleep, about 10 of them had a giant party on the back of my neck. My neck has since swollen up to reach a diameter equivalent to my tree-trunk thighs. Black flies are the provincial symbol of Northern Ontario (just as mosquitoes are the provincial symbol of Manitoba). It is also the symbol that the Tourist Board of Ontario tries desperately to neatly brush under the carpet… “Black flies…? What black flies…?”

The day ahead was due to be a long one – 160kms – and Andrew and Brendan were on Galley Duty so I decided to don the rain gear, brave the damp, rain, mosquitoes, wind and cold and wait for them… about 35 kms up the road in White Lake, the home of Winnie The Pooh..! Thank goodness for a lovely little establishment called, ‘Robins Donuts’ where I waited for the boys to arrive (and ate 4 donuts in the process).

Winnie the Pooh was a Canadian..!

On August 24th, 1914, Lt. Harry Colebourn, a Canadian Army Veterinarian purchased a black bear cub in White River, Ontario while enroute overseas. The female cub was named Winnie after his home town Winnipeg, Manitoba. Winnie was left in the care of the London Zoo on December 9th, 1914 while Captain Colebourn served in France in 1919. He gave her to the Zoo where she was watched and loved by many including author A. A. Milne and his son Christopher. While at the London Zoo, Winnie’s name was changed to Winnie the Pooh and A. A. Milne based his stories on this bear. Winnie died in 1934.

The rest of the day went well – it stayed rainy and damp for most of the morning and the sky remained overcast which may have been a blessing in disguise as whilst the notes said that the terrain would be ‘easy’ it was actually quite hilly. We nearly completely avoided the rain apart from a 5 minute shower which managed to ‘dampen’ my rain gear (and get my Goretex jacket suitably sweaty). I have decided that in spite of cycling over 3500kms over the course of 37 days I am still a recreational cyclist as I do not enjoy biking in the rain and if given the choice, I’d much rather stay in the comfort of the coffee shop… preferably Tim Hortons.

Interestingly today is also the Half Way day for Brendan and I who started in Vancouver rather than Victoria on our 72 day trip. We stopped for a ‘Half Way’ photo just as a giant black cloud was approaching us in the distance. Fortunately the wind carried it well into the opposite direction otherwise I wouldn’t look nearly so happy about being half way. The weather changed a few minutes later and as we cycled the mica mineral on the rock faces along the road sparkled in the sun.


Wawa:

We met up with the French Connection around noon, at around the 100th km and had an enjoyable (fast) ride with them into Wawa where we discovered a TIM HORTONS...!! I was very much looking forward to Wawa and seeing the giant Canada Goose. There is an obsession among Canadians in building all things ‘big’ - big ‘Potash Pete’, big ‘Smokey the Bear’, big ‘Snowman’, big ‘Winnie the Pooh’, big ‘Moose’ – just to name a few. This particular monument of a ‘giant goose’ was dedicated to commemorate the opening of the last link of the Lake Superior section of the TransCanada Highway on the 17th of September 1960. The Canada Goose is a symbol of the Community of Wawa whose name is an Ojibway Indian word meaning ‘wild goose’. The sculpture was constructed of Algoma Steel products made from Iron Ore made from Iron Ore mined from mined by the Algoma Ore division - Wawa. Unfortunately our stop was only a ‘quickie’ as the mosquitoes took great pleasure in attempting to devour all of the tourists stopping alongside the ‘Wild Goose’ to take a photo.

We still had another 30kms to bike and it was getting late so we hopped back on our bikes and fought a headwind back into camp. Normally 30kms is an easy ride to end the day after a short break but the wind certainly provided us with a challenge in getting to our final destination of Lake Superior Provincial Park. As soon as we left the rolling hills of Wawa we faced the ‘rugged terrain’ which led into the Park. I must admit, I enjoyed the rolling terrain but the change in scenery was a welcome treat – the hills continued but the vegetation changed and the number of lakes along the road soared exponentially. The trees were predominantly Yellow poplar, Silver Birch, and Spruce Trees. I must admit, it was a beautiful cycle into the park and while there were some steep, long and gradual climbs there were also many downhills. Unfortunately however the headwind and also the lake gusts greatly reduced the speed of descent on the downhills. Shortly after we entered Lake Superior Provincial Park there was a fantastic downhill over about 1.5 kms and led you to a smooth bend which overlooked the sparkling Lake Superior. Here was Old Woman Bay where Andrew and I stopped to watch Brendan rocket down the hill. Old Woman Bay is a very scenic spot and is where the ashes of the late film maker (paddler and artist) Bill Mason were scattered. It’s called Old Woman Bay because in the cliffs the face of an old woman looks out over the bay.

A long climb ended the day and I was happy to turn right into our campground which was overlooking a gorgeous clear lake and seemed to be relatively mosquito free. I was also delighted to have spaghetti for dinner and the opportunity to do a Turkey Hand Over to Gary. He deserved the turkey as he had actually fallen asleep on his bicycle (and fell off of it…) going uphill. Definitely ‘Turkey Award’ material..!

The Owen Sound Triathalon - Hmmmmmmmmm...

Another highlight of the day was a joint decision between Graham, Eve and I to enter a team in the Owen Sound Triathalon in a few days time. Graham would be cycling, Eve running and I would be swimming. Our main competition would be the team made up of Brendan (running), Andrew (swimming) and Yao (cycling).

I was happy to crawl into my tent that evening and it did not take me long to fall asleep after another fantastic day of cycling.

Bon Jovi - "Livin' on a Prayer"

"Whooah, we're half way there...."

- Bon Jovi - "Livin' on a Prayer"

Terrace Bay – White Lake - Day 36 HALF WAY!!
147 kms / 91 miles

Today is the ‘Halfway Day’ – we are half way through our trip across Canada..!

It’s hard to believe that we’re already 35 days into the trip. It seems like just yesterday that we set off from the residence at UBC in Vancouver. At the same time, when I think back to all of the amazing people I’ve met, things I’ve seen, feelings I’ve experienced, and scenarios that we’ve lived through and laughed at I can’t believe that we’ve packed all that in 36 days. It really is such a strange and ‘bitter sweet’ feeling – I’m happy that we’re half way but at the same time I wish that it wasn’t because I’m having such a great time. The ‘real world’ will definitely be a shock to my system and I keep postponing thinking about it..!

I feel that I’ve definitely learned a lot about both myself and my country on this trip. I have learned that I can push myself physically to an extent that I’d never dreamed possible and with the right combination of food, sleep and exercise I have energy that knows no ends…! As Andrew says, he knows that I am in ‘fine form’ when I am fed and watered… much like a plant. I’ve also learned that if I put my mind to something that I can do it – crossing Canada, initially, seemed like a monumental trip and when you look at it as a ‘total’ distance then it is… however, when the trip is broken up into sections and you mentally break those sections down into something pleasant like coffee stops, donut stops, picture stops, pee-stops and chatting stops then it becomes much more of an ‘experience’ rather than a means to an end. I’ve also learned that I actually love road biking. I’ve always considered myself more of a ‘mountain biker’ but the past 35 days has really opened my eyes to the speed and ‘grace’ that a road bike offers. Whilst the excessive use of lycra and spandex takes some getting used to I do feel as though I am no longer a ‘newbie’ and have slowly become a ‘hard core’. I would never ever in a million years have guessed that this would have happened on Day 1 of this trip..!

You know that you’ve been on the road too long when:

- main topics of conversation include the words ‘butt cream’ and ‘chaffing’
- you leave butt cream in random rest rooms around the country
- you fall asleep on your bicycle going uphill
- you spend your Saturday night on Galley Duty until 9:30pm
- your pjamas have pockets in the back for toothpaste, toothbrush, dental floss
- you put up your tent outside of a University dorm
- you eat triple breakfasts
- you eat with your hands and out of a trough
- you eat anything
- your butt goes flat and takes on a triangular bicycle seat shape
- 40% chance of rain means that you WILL definitely get wet
- 8pm is a ‘late night’
- you don’t get off your bike to pee
- your knuckles look like they have nicotine stains
- you recognise people by the decibel level of their snore
- you walk in a paceline and point out all ruts in the road

Today was a great day – I knew it would rain as the forecast called for a 40% chance of rain which, from past experience, means that it will definitely rain. I was not looking forward to that but Brendan and Andrew promised that we could go to the Terrace Bay bakery so that I could have a coffee (they are getting better at bribing me).

My Manager and my Coach

On the topic of Brendan and Andrew and my evolution from ‘Newbie’ to ‘Hard Core’ over the past few weeks… I have developed roles for them (yes, my mind tends to wander when I am in the saddle). Brendan, I have decided, is my Canadian Manager. He is the ‘Roman Abramovitch’ of my cycling career. Brendan has hired Andrew to be my Kenyan Coach. Andrew cycles with me about 85% of the time (when he has not buggered off to chase the French Connection). Every few days Brendan disappears for a few hours – sometimes even an entire afternoon – leaving Andrew to work on my technique and bark orders at me from behind. He has fine tuned what he calls ‘techniques’ to make me cycle faster – the promise of food, the promise of downhills, the promise of ‘a stop in 5 minutes’, the threat of rain. At the end of the day, Andrew and Brendan meet and discuss my progress. “Mate, ‘Your Highness’ is like a rocket now. She’s graduated” is the usual report back to Brendan. Of course, Brendan then coolly starts the following day off with a turbo 30 km / hour uphill start just to ‘test’ me to see if the progress is indeed as advanced as Andrew claims it is. Sometimes I impress, sometimes I don’t. I have learned that even if I do keep up, and even if I do impress, Brendan will ALWAYS blow past me and smile just to put me in my place. Andrew is then put back on the case to train me further until Brendan’s next test. I fear for the day when Brendan puts a spanner in the works and orders Andrew to make me pump up my own tire pressure to 110psi in the morning and also change my own tire if I get a flat. Now that I have become stronger on the hills I do realise that I need to improve on the technical ‘DIY aspects’ of the ‘hard core’ title.

Todays ride opened with a visit to the Terrace Bay bakery where I had ½ cup of coffee because by the time I was ½ way through it Andrew and Brendan already had their helmets on and were on their bicycles whilst I was still inside of the bakery, steamy mug of coffee in hand. Manager AND Coach were impatient and keen to get on the road as they were both on Galley Duty for the evening and it was going to be a long day, broken up by a ‘Half Way’ lunch 50kms into the ride.

The morning ride was a gorgeous one and my huge appetite yesterday certainly paid off and gave me the energy I needed to fly up the steep hills into Marathon. It felt good to ‘attack’ the hills and not worry about them like I used to do in BC and Alberta. The scenery definitely helped as did a great tail wind. The hills are steep and long but they are rolling and bordered on either side by steep granite faces, reddish in color and pine trees, birch trees, spruce trees and hundreds of lakes. Every bend seems to reveal another ‘kodak moment’ but there are only so many that you can capture on film..! It was a bit of a shame that the weather was overcast and ‘damp’ but it was a bit of a blessing in disguise. I can’t imagine climbing up some of those hills in 30 degree heat plus humidity..!

Everyone was in good spirits and looking forward to our Half Way Lunch which was to be held at the Ney's Park in the former Prisoner of War Camp. We made it there in record time and waited for the truck by eating coffee crisp chocolate bars and downing a litre of iced tea. The temperature seemed to plummet while we were waiting which was not helped by the fact that my clothes were wet from sweat and the humidity. By the time we made the 4km journey into the park I was absolutely freezing, hungry and keen to continue on with our ride.

It was great to meet up with everyone half way through the day though as generally you only see people ‘on the road’ in small groups or one at a time. It was nice to gather round the truck and along the beach and have some ‘off bike’ time together and have a bit of a trip down memory lane as we reflected on the past 36 days. Everyone agreed that it had b been a great trip so far and we were looking forward to the next 36 days together. May they be equally full of health and happiness...

The French Connection bravely (madly) went into Lake Superior. It made me cold just watching them..! Andrew, Brendan and I had a look at the clouds which looked full of rain and about to explode and we decided to head out and make good time into camp as they were both on Galley Duty. The agreed pit stop for a quick refuel would be Marathon which was 30kms away. We flew the 30 kms and made it in record time – very fun and very fast..! It was an absolute pleasure to ride.

Unfortunately Marathon is ‘off piste’ so we did not venture the 4km from the highway into the town. Instead we pulled up along an old (closed) restaurant and a gas station where BC and Andrew refuelled on chocolate milk and I had a large steaming cup of hot coffee. I needed it..! We all sat outside along the curb staring out at the gas pumps and reflected on the afternoon and strategised our next 40kms. I suddenly heard a strange ‘tick, tick, tick…’ sound coming from Brendan’s bike. He also heard it and edged closer to it trying to figure out what was making the strange noise when suddenly,

BOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!

The front tire totally exploded leaving our ears ringing. Some burly looking men in leather chaps who were refuelling their Harleys at the pumps came running over to check what had happened. Brendan quickly took a closer look at the tire and the tube was totally destroyed but the tire itself seemed ok. It was a random incident but did shake everyone up a bit especially to think that it could have happened on the road. Given that we had been flying down hills at 60kms/ hour about 5 minutes earlier it could have been much more serious. It really put into perspective (yet again) how you should always be careful and you never know what might happen next.

The rest of the afternoon was much more subdued but equally fun as we had a wicked tail wind and were cruising at about 35kms/hour on relatively flat terrain. We passed through some very, very rough construction for about 10kms which ‘shook’ (literally!) everyone up a bit as the bike suddenly became a giant carbon fibre vibrating machine. The road was rough and I was a bit concerned what it was doing to my tire but upon closer inspection it was ok and survived the harrowing ride.

We passed the Hemlo gold mines as well as the Yellow Brick road which is the road to Battle Mountain Mine. The name ‘Yellow Brick Road’ is a literal name as the contractor mistakenly used gold ore instead of gravel to make the road…! I didn’t feel too much like Dorothy from the Wizard of Oz and if I had some red ruby slippers I wouldn’t be clicking my heels just yet. The scenery stayed very picturesque with tall pine trees lining the road and the rough shield was sticking out through the beds of pine needles. At times it felt as though we were cycling through a giant canyon as rocky pink and reddish coloured cliffs lined the side of the road. The sun even started to make a welcome appearance as the afternoon progressed. It seemed as though the storms and isolated showers that had been chasing us throughout the day had dissipated.

We cruised into camp at around 4pm which gave BC and Andrew enough time to get their tents etc. ready in time for their Galley Duty chores. Somehow as we cycled into camp a dark cloud managed to ‘sneak’ up on us and JUST as I put the fly on my tent the rain which we’d been avoiding all day came pouring down. I had just enough time to throw my wordly possessions into the tent and jump in after them without getting too wet. It was a lucky escape and I felt bad for all those riders who were just getting into camp and were going to end their day with wet clothes.

Northern Ontario = Mosquitoes, Black flies, Rain...

Unfortunately that wasn’t the end of the rain. The rain fell on and off in sheets throughout the evening and was joined by a campers worst enemy – mosquitoes and black flies. The mosquitoes were TERRIBLE. I have never experienced anything like it. The second you stopped moving or revealed a patch of skin it would soon be covered by a swarm of mosquitoes. The black flies immediately go for the head. They are tiny and seem to conglomerate around the base of the neck and take large ‘chunks’ of skin for their dinners leaving behind a giant itchy welt. I’ve been relatively ‘lucky’ so far (only about 5 welts). Some of those on the team have been much less fortunate and are absolutely covered in bites. The problem in some cases is also that the flies have gotten into the helmets and then have all day to have a ‘feast’.

So, it was one of our first wet and itchy evenings but Brendan and Andrew’s Galley Crew still managed to put on a feast. Burritos..! They were absolutely delicious and very much appreciated by all. A fantastic meal to end a fun day. I must admit, I am absolutely exhausted tonight from the hills, the cold, the pressure to get to camp on time etc. and am now quite happily settled inside of my tent away from the rain and away from the flies. Hopefully the weather will clear up for tomorrow as it would be nice to see a day of sun again as it seems like ages ago that we’ve had 24 hours of gorgeous weather (I think it was Thunder Bay…).

Johnny Nash - "I Can See Clearly Now..."

I can see clearly now, the rain is gone
I can see all obstacles in my way
Gone are the dark clouds that had me blind
It's gonna be a bright (bright), bright (bright)
Sun shiny day

- Johnny Nash - "I Can See Clarly Now..."

Nipigon to Terrace Bay – Day 35
113 kilometers / 70 miles

Galley Duty was made more challenging this morning because of the fact that I absolutely could not find the energy to crawl out of my sleeping bag today. It was a very cloudy morning and I had a strong suspicion that rain was imminent. Nothing is worse than Galley Duty in the rain. It is more than ‘character building’, it is soul destroying as it likely means that you will be starting the date early, leaving late and getting wet in the process. Yick..! Fortunately the rain never materialised in spite of my worries..!

We were packed up and ready to go at around 8:30 which was pretty good timing. Brendan was on turbo mode in an attempt to avoid the rain so he left early with Ian. Andrew kindly helped with the bags and the clean up which made our departure even more timely. I was a bit worried as Dave had mentioned that today was gong to be the 3rd biggest climbing day on the trip. It’s hard because I know that nothing can be ‘bigger’ than the Rockies but somehow the thought of a day of climbing is so intimidating and sometimes I am convinced that everyone builds up so many stories and rumors about the hill that you lose all perception of reality. I have decided to try my best and ignore what people say about ‘monster hills’ and try to take things more in stride.

Andrew and I started the day with a coffee at ‘Max Milk’ in Nipigon (http://www.nipigon.net/). Nipgon is a classic old Northern Ontario railway town. Visitors traveling along the 615kms stretch of Highway 11 between Cochraine and Nipigon are primarily hunters, anglers and truckers. The Lonely Planet ranks Nipigon quite high on the scale of ‘godforsakeness’.

It seemed pretty deserted and run down but the Max Milk had a group of friendly locals. The cashier asked where we were from and what we were up to and chuckled when I asked if there were humungous hills up again. Apparently we will have hills until we reach Sault Ste. Marie which is about 600kms away..! Yikes..! I powered up with a coffee and rice crispie square and a pep talk from Andrew. We volunteered to be ‘sweeps’ for the rest of the day as I was keen to take the hills slow and steady without the pressure of time.

The initial few kilometres were bumpy ones thanks to some hardcore construction and the hills that were ‘promised’ in the first few kms of the trip never really materialised…! There was one climb as we began to ascend a steep and rocky escarpment but it was certainly not impossible and throughout the climb you were rewarded with gorgeous views of Nipigon Bay. Additionally, just before the bustling metropolis of Gravel River the sun came out..! We had a pancake stop at Gravel River and enjoyed the best coffee in town (it was also the only coffee shop…!). It was already 11:30 and we’d already covered 50kms so were nearly half way. A good feeling and a reason why I like short days..!!

The rumours about the hills finally materialised around km 60 when we started some gorgeous climbs through the rocky Canadian Shield. It was surreal biking through canyon-like passes bordered on either side by tall red rock through which the road had been cut. It was one of the first times in a long time that I really had to crank my way up a hill in my smallest gear. I could feel the lactic acid building up in my legs which was a satisfying feeling (although it hurt!) but it meant I was working. It’s fascinating to feel my body becoming stronger and dealing with the ‘hell’ that I’m putting it through at the moment. The rewards are definitely becoming obvious though as my legs have so much more definition – particularly my quads and calf muscles.

We had what I think might be one of the 2nd best downhills of the trip so far today as well. After a long steep climb about 7kms out of Gravel River we had a tremendous downhill – absolutely gorgeous, fast with a wide shoulder through to Rossport. It was stunning and it felt like I was ‘at the top of the world’ as I shot like a rocket down the tarmac with a steep rocky drop to the right of the higway. The road was in great shape with a very wide shoulder so you could really enjoy the speed, the views, and the satisfaction of knowing that you really deserved that downhill particularly after what had been quite a challenging and particularly sweaty uphill. It was great to see the Rossport sign and it was a little ‘oasis’ that I didn’t expect to find after my experiences with Northern Ontario towns so far.

Rossport (http://www.rossport.ca/) is described by the Lonely Planet travel guide to Canada as “the best place on Lake Superior to do precisely nothing, in a setting reminiscent of a model miniature village, minus the kitsch, plus the quaintness.’ Rossport was a fantastic stop – it didn’t have any fast food stores, had no motels, and not even many people… what it did have was loads and loads of flowers and plenty of charm. Its population peaks at around 100 people. We had lunch at a lovely café called the Serendipity Cafe which had a view out over Lake Superior. It had a picture-book church, tiny caboose museum and a gift stop painted decoratively in bright blue. The locals were all friendly and I felt a bit like I was stepping into a picturebook. At the restaurant I dined on a fantastic Greek salad and huge glass of fresh iced tea. With the warm sun, the gorgeous views, and feeling of satisfaction of having gracefully survived the morning I was feeling pretty good..! It was one of those ‘This is precisely why I am doing this trip’ sort of hours. Laura, Tak, John and Lani also joined us and we all raved about what a fantastic day we were having so far.

At the café we met 3 cute American guys who were taking motorbikes around Lake Superior. That really appealed to me as well. The thought of seeing the views from a Harley Davidson would certainly be an exhilarating and exciting feeling – especially going ‘wide open’ (as one of the guys described it) on an open road… or an uphill. Ironically, as we got talking to them they became more interested in doing something like the TdC for their ‘annual’ trip next year. I began to consider swapping my bike for one of theirs…. Tempting..! Trek for Harley…. Hmmmm…. I wonder if I can get one with a sheepskin seat cover.

As we pulled out of Rossport the waitress mentioned that she was surprised that the rain which had been forecast had not yet materialised. Suspicious…. Sure enough, as soon as we pulled out of the café Andrew told me to look behind me which, on hindsight, wasn’t a very good idea. HUGE dark blue storm clouds blanketed the sky. Ohhhh noooo… I can’t believe that we totally relaxed for 1.5 hours in what was due to be a ‘short’ day and we were now going to pay the price by getting soaked in one of those 5 minute downpours. Those are frustratingly short and can get one frustratingly wet. Andrew and I stepped on the proverbial gas and zoomed like a rocket up and down the 20kms of hills until we reached Schreiber. All the while the clouds were picking up speed (and water) and were following us faster and faster. We arrived in Schreiber and zoomed (dry!!) into a motel café where we tucked into a big piece of pie and a warm coffee to watch the storm blow over. We were soon joined by Laura and Tak. Eating and drinking coffee was certainly a theme of the day..!

In case you were wondering, we did EVENTUALLY reach Terrace Bay (dry) where dinner was being served under a sun which had magically appeared. We quickly put up our tents and Brendan suggested dinner ‘out’ (after all, it WAS a Friday night..!) so we walked into the local restaurant in Terrace Bay adjacent to the Imperial Hotel (which had been recommended by our 3 motorcycle friends). I had an amazing, amazing GIGANTIC piece of lasagne (bringing my caloric intake to about 10,000 for the day…) and also a wonderfully cold and refreshing pint of Canadian. Brendan, Andrew and I had a laugh about the day and anticipated the following day to White Lake, a 147km ride and a hilly one at that.

Brendan and I walked the 1.5 kms back into camp whilst Andrew headed to 'The Imperial' for a few more drinks. The sky was looking rather ominous once again and just before we walked out of the restaurant we peeked at the weather channel which had a severe weather warning in effect for the area. Yikes… I had visions of the Youngstown hailstorm all over again. There was a silver lining on the cloud over our campground which, about 20 minutes later quickly disappeared as the heavens opened and the rain came down. Fortunately I was in my tent, dry and looking forward to a good, solid nights sleep…!

Rod Stewart - "Never Give Up on a Dream"

If there's doubt and you're cold,
don't you worry what the future holds.
We've gotta have heroes to teach us all
to never give up on a dream.

Claim the road, touch the sun,
no force on earth could stop you run.
When your heart bursts like the sun
never never give up on a dream.

Shadows fall, daylight dies,
freedoms never got a place to hide.
Search forever finish line
but never give up on your dream.

- Rod Stewart – Never Give Up on a Dream

Day 34: Thunder Bay to Nipigon
112 kms / 69 miles

"Dreams are made if people only try. I believe in miracles...I have to...because somewhere the hurting must stop."

- Terry Fox

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=g1HheJV-pNM

I thought that it would be relatively easy to get started fresh and early this morning given it was spectacularly beautiful weather outside (sun and blue skies!!), I had slept in a bed, and thought I was pretty much organised. I have learned however that I operate best on a routine and as soon as I am thrown out of that routine things seem to go pear-shaped. This morning was a perfect example of that. I managed to emerge from the University residence at around 7:30 after a warm shower and assumed that everyone would be taking it easy and max their time in the dorm rooms… I was totally mistaken..! I was one of the last ones to have breakfast and the initial plan of grabbing a second breakfast at the Timmy’s just down the road from the residence was tentatively put on hold. BC was in a similar boat to me as realised that his sunglasses had been lost… only to be found in the aptly named, ‘lost and found’ in the University Office… which didn’t open until 08:30. He could see the sunglasses behind the thick security glass but could not get at them. So, BC’s plans for an early departure were also delayed somewhat which inevitably made my late start less of an issue.

Ian, in all true fashion, decided to start cleaning his bike about 30 seconds before we pulled out of the parking lot… So funny. We were all like, 'Ian.............. that is why we have REST DAYS!!!'

We did eventually stop at Timmy’s (about 3 minutes from the university) where we hummed and hawed over the forecast whilst sipping coffees and gorging on donuts and breakfast sandwiches and teased Brendan about his sunglasses. Shambles.. ! The forecast wasn’t great – rain and thunder – but we hoped that it would hold off for a few more days. It was hard to get up the energy to head out and brave the traffic (and potholes) of Thunder Bay but it felt good to be on my bike again with the sun shining down on us. Bliss..! I was looking forward to today because we were going to stop at the Terry Fox Memorial.

We headed uphill out of Thunder Bay (stopping to take pictures of ‘The Sleeping Giant’) and through to the Terry Fox Memorial. The views as we headed out of the city were gorgeous – I have never been to Thunder Bay before and I must admit, it is one of the most ‘outdoorsy’ and relaxing cities that we’ve come through during the trip.

The Terry Fox Memorial - Never give up on a dream

The Terry Fox Memorial is a wonderful memorial with Terry's statue atop a long stone edifice. Terry's memorial is beautifully situated, high on a hill overlooking Lake Superior and the Canadian Shield. The memorial is engraved with the history of Terry's life as well as the emblems of each of Canada's 10 provinces and 2 territories. This is a mighty place. Because of our late start it was relatively quiet around the memorial which really helped to create a serene and powerful presence around the memorial. It was an incredibly moving moment and I could only begin to understand and relate to Terry Fox’s achievement and the strength and determination that he must have had… The miracle of Terry Fox was that he was an ordinary young man who turned his response to pain and loss into a triumph of hope and courage.

About Terry Fox

Terry Stanley "Terry" Fox, (July 28, 1958 – June 28, 1981) was a Canadian humanitarian, athlete, and cancer treatment activist. He is considered one of Canada's greatest heroes of the 20th Century.

Terry Fox was born in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada and was raised in Port Coquitlam, British Columbia. After losing his right leg at age 20 to cancer, the young athlete decided to run from coast to coast in order to raise money for cancer research. Beginning by dipping his leg in the Atlantic Ocean at St. John's, Newfoundland on April 12, 1980, aimed to dip it again in the Pacific Ocean at Vancouver, British Columbia. His pace was daunting. He ran an average of 42 km a day — the distance of a typical marathon. No one had ever done anything similar to the task Fox was undertaking.

He could not finish his run, however, as the cancer spread to his lung and he was forced to abandon the course on September 1, 1980 just north-east of Thunder Bay, Ontario after 143 days, running 5,373 km (3,339 miles) through Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, Quebec, and Ontario. A few days later, Canada's CTV network telecast an impromptu telethon to raise money for cancer research and to, in spirit, keep Fox's Marathon of Hope going. Many Canadian and Hollywood celebrities took part in the event which raised more than C$10 million.

Despite the setback, Fox wasn't ready to admit defeat, and on several occasions in the fall of 1980 there were reports that the runner might be well enough to resume his marathon.

Terry Fox died on June 28, 1981 at the age of 22, one month before his 23rd birthday. However, his Marathon of Hope captured the nation's attention. He was proclaimed a national hero, and the annual Terry Fox Run events organized all across Canada, in the United States, and in other countries around the world, have raised more than $400M for cancer research.

To find out more visit: http://www.terryfoxrun.org/
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It was impossible not to feel overwhelmed reading the inscriptions on the Terry Fox memorial – one which especially caught my attention was:

"Dreams are made if people only try. I believe in miracles...I have to...because somewhere the hurting must stop." Terry Fox

Brendan, Andrew, Ian and I left the memorial in a state of quiet contemplation – we were all pretty quiet and we were all reflecting on the journey that we were on. I made a mental note to think about Terry Fox’ achievement next time I started to complain about the cold, my aching muscles or the rain…

We continued on route 17/11 in anticipation of the ‘major construction’ which many of the locals had warned us about. We stopped for some refreshments and another snack at a small convenience store owned and operated by a German couple and met up with Jocelyn, Ken and Kyle. This was the same convenience store which had a wonderful, rich aroma wafting from the front doors… We sat outside eating our Snickers bars wondering what smelled so good. Andrew finally made the move and went in to enquire what smelled so tasty… The owner looked a bit confused and stepped aside to reveal a newly opened can of steaming ‘Bow Wow’ dogfood… This is a fine example of how ravenously hungry we have become!!!

We continued on the road and passed some cool roadside markers showing our location relative to the 'rest of the world' near a hostel and then encountered a very rough section of construction that lasted for about 5 kilometres at around km 61 of the trip (near Pearl). It was pretty brutal – I felt as though my bike was being shaken apart and it was hard to avoid the giant potholes, rocks, and flying debris from the giant machinery and road crushers grating the road and preparing it to be paved. I feel as though I have become an expert in road-construction on this trip..!

Part of the construction was fairly easy riding as they had just ground the old asphalt and we were able to keep a steady pace. Another piece was just packed earth and stone roadbed that had just been watered down. We managed to ride on the dry side, but it was loose and at times I skidded around on my bike struggling to keep control. It wasn't helpful to have a stream of large semi-trailer trucks flying past us with their big wheels and their loose cargo. The traffic certainly wasn’t sympathetic to our light little road bikes..! I was happy when the construction had finally ended and we were able to continue on and enjoy what was relatively good pavement.

The strange thing about the rest of the journey is that we cycled it pretty uneventfully. The Cue sheet mentioned that there would be climbing past Dorion so we kept expecting things to get more difficult but they never did..! The alleged ‘climbs’ never materialised. We stopped for a break at another convenience store where I indulged in an ice-cream bar and ate half of Andrew’s 2-day old peanut butter (and jam) sandwich. Beggers can’t be choosers..!!

We were just cycling past the route 628 turn off at a fairly hefty pace when Brendan suddenly slammed on his brakes and pulled over off the road. He’d been bitten by a wasp on his ankle and is allergic to wasp stings. We kept a close eye on his ankle for about 5 minutes and washed the bite out with cold water. Fortunately BC didn’t have a reaction to it but we did keep a very close eye on him and the tall grasses and wild flowers growing along the shoulder of the road.

It was nice to pull into ‘Stillwater Tent and Trailer Park’ at around 3pm which was relatively early for our standards. I was on Galley Duty so after putting up my tent alongside a stream with BC, Andrew and Ian, I headed off to start my vegetable chopping routine. The weather was still sunny and warm but there was rain the forecast. Fortunately Galley Crew was fairly straight forward tonight and we were ready at 6pm sharp with a feast of chicken stir fry. Everyone was relaxed and happy after such an inspirational day of riding. The highlight of the trip for so many people was the Terry Fox memorial and we all reflected on how lucky we all were to have this experience and be able to do it in such good health. Terry is and will always be a true hero to Canadians.

Andrew had his ‘butt surgery’ today as well – without going into too much detail (best get the story from him) – he was forced to go under the knife on a make-shift gurney – a picnic table under the light of the setting sun by 'The DoctOr' who was decked out in his most stylish bicycle kit and latex gloves. Fortunately the doctor on the trip, Graeme, had his surgical tools (which included 2 very long, sharp needles and syringes) available and was able to go to battle with Andrew’s backside. While we are unsure whether it has actually solved the problems, it has certainly made for a few chuckles. Andrew treated himself to an icecream to battle the pain. I do feel sorry for him and am once again SO thankful that I have absolutely no ailments - I believe that this is thanks to my wooly sheepskin bicycle seat cover named Polly.

I am now sat outside of the internet room watching an approaching storm come in. The sky is a dark black and you can feel the rain in the air. There are loads of little black bugs that are starting to feast on my neck and arms so will soon turn in for the day. A wonderful and inspirational day and hard to believe that we are nearly through our journey across Canada. Tomorrow will be a big climbing day but also a day nearer to the ‘official’ half-way mark on our trip..! Hopefully the rain that is about to fall will pass during the night and leave us with sunny skies for tomorrow… If only I could be so lucky!!