Bon Jovi - "Livin' on a Prayer"

"Whooah, we're half way there...."

- Bon Jovi - "Livin' on a Prayer"

Terrace Bay – White Lake - Day 36 HALF WAY!!
147 kms / 91 miles

Today is the ‘Halfway Day’ – we are half way through our trip across Canada..!

It’s hard to believe that we’re already 35 days into the trip. It seems like just yesterday that we set off from the residence at UBC in Vancouver. At the same time, when I think back to all of the amazing people I’ve met, things I’ve seen, feelings I’ve experienced, and scenarios that we’ve lived through and laughed at I can’t believe that we’ve packed all that in 36 days. It really is such a strange and ‘bitter sweet’ feeling – I’m happy that we’re half way but at the same time I wish that it wasn’t because I’m having such a great time. The ‘real world’ will definitely be a shock to my system and I keep postponing thinking about it..!

I feel that I’ve definitely learned a lot about both myself and my country on this trip. I have learned that I can push myself physically to an extent that I’d never dreamed possible and with the right combination of food, sleep and exercise I have energy that knows no ends…! As Andrew says, he knows that I am in ‘fine form’ when I am fed and watered… much like a plant. I’ve also learned that if I put my mind to something that I can do it – crossing Canada, initially, seemed like a monumental trip and when you look at it as a ‘total’ distance then it is… however, when the trip is broken up into sections and you mentally break those sections down into something pleasant like coffee stops, donut stops, picture stops, pee-stops and chatting stops then it becomes much more of an ‘experience’ rather than a means to an end. I’ve also learned that I actually love road biking. I’ve always considered myself more of a ‘mountain biker’ but the past 35 days has really opened my eyes to the speed and ‘grace’ that a road bike offers. Whilst the excessive use of lycra and spandex takes some getting used to I do feel as though I am no longer a ‘newbie’ and have slowly become a ‘hard core’. I would never ever in a million years have guessed that this would have happened on Day 1 of this trip..!

You know that you’ve been on the road too long when:

- main topics of conversation include the words ‘butt cream’ and ‘chaffing’
- you leave butt cream in random rest rooms around the country
- you fall asleep on your bicycle going uphill
- you spend your Saturday night on Galley Duty until 9:30pm
- your pjamas have pockets in the back for toothpaste, toothbrush, dental floss
- you put up your tent outside of a University dorm
- you eat triple breakfasts
- you eat with your hands and out of a trough
- you eat anything
- your butt goes flat and takes on a triangular bicycle seat shape
- 40% chance of rain means that you WILL definitely get wet
- 8pm is a ‘late night’
- you don’t get off your bike to pee
- your knuckles look like they have nicotine stains
- you recognise people by the decibel level of their snore
- you walk in a paceline and point out all ruts in the road

Today was a great day – I knew it would rain as the forecast called for a 40% chance of rain which, from past experience, means that it will definitely rain. I was not looking forward to that but Brendan and Andrew promised that we could go to the Terrace Bay bakery so that I could have a coffee (they are getting better at bribing me).

My Manager and my Coach

On the topic of Brendan and Andrew and my evolution from ‘Newbie’ to ‘Hard Core’ over the past few weeks… I have developed roles for them (yes, my mind tends to wander when I am in the saddle). Brendan, I have decided, is my Canadian Manager. He is the ‘Roman Abramovitch’ of my cycling career. Brendan has hired Andrew to be my Kenyan Coach. Andrew cycles with me about 85% of the time (when he has not buggered off to chase the French Connection). Every few days Brendan disappears for a few hours – sometimes even an entire afternoon – leaving Andrew to work on my technique and bark orders at me from behind. He has fine tuned what he calls ‘techniques’ to make me cycle faster – the promise of food, the promise of downhills, the promise of ‘a stop in 5 minutes’, the threat of rain. At the end of the day, Andrew and Brendan meet and discuss my progress. “Mate, ‘Your Highness’ is like a rocket now. She’s graduated” is the usual report back to Brendan. Of course, Brendan then coolly starts the following day off with a turbo 30 km / hour uphill start just to ‘test’ me to see if the progress is indeed as advanced as Andrew claims it is. Sometimes I impress, sometimes I don’t. I have learned that even if I do keep up, and even if I do impress, Brendan will ALWAYS blow past me and smile just to put me in my place. Andrew is then put back on the case to train me further until Brendan’s next test. I fear for the day when Brendan puts a spanner in the works and orders Andrew to make me pump up my own tire pressure to 110psi in the morning and also change my own tire if I get a flat. Now that I have become stronger on the hills I do realise that I need to improve on the technical ‘DIY aspects’ of the ‘hard core’ title.

Todays ride opened with a visit to the Terrace Bay bakery where I had ½ cup of coffee because by the time I was ½ way through it Andrew and Brendan already had their helmets on and were on their bicycles whilst I was still inside of the bakery, steamy mug of coffee in hand. Manager AND Coach were impatient and keen to get on the road as they were both on Galley Duty for the evening and it was going to be a long day, broken up by a ‘Half Way’ lunch 50kms into the ride.

The morning ride was a gorgeous one and my huge appetite yesterday certainly paid off and gave me the energy I needed to fly up the steep hills into Marathon. It felt good to ‘attack’ the hills and not worry about them like I used to do in BC and Alberta. The scenery definitely helped as did a great tail wind. The hills are steep and long but they are rolling and bordered on either side by steep granite faces, reddish in color and pine trees, birch trees, spruce trees and hundreds of lakes. Every bend seems to reveal another ‘kodak moment’ but there are only so many that you can capture on film..! It was a bit of a shame that the weather was overcast and ‘damp’ but it was a bit of a blessing in disguise. I can’t imagine climbing up some of those hills in 30 degree heat plus humidity..!

Everyone was in good spirits and looking forward to our Half Way Lunch which was to be held at the Ney's Park in the former Prisoner of War Camp. We made it there in record time and waited for the truck by eating coffee crisp chocolate bars and downing a litre of iced tea. The temperature seemed to plummet while we were waiting which was not helped by the fact that my clothes were wet from sweat and the humidity. By the time we made the 4km journey into the park I was absolutely freezing, hungry and keen to continue on with our ride.

It was great to meet up with everyone half way through the day though as generally you only see people ‘on the road’ in small groups or one at a time. It was nice to gather round the truck and along the beach and have some ‘off bike’ time together and have a bit of a trip down memory lane as we reflected on the past 36 days. Everyone agreed that it had b been a great trip so far and we were looking forward to the next 36 days together. May they be equally full of health and happiness...

The French Connection bravely (madly) went into Lake Superior. It made me cold just watching them..! Andrew, Brendan and I had a look at the clouds which looked full of rain and about to explode and we decided to head out and make good time into camp as they were both on Galley Duty. The agreed pit stop for a quick refuel would be Marathon which was 30kms away. We flew the 30 kms and made it in record time – very fun and very fast..! It was an absolute pleasure to ride.

Unfortunately Marathon is ‘off piste’ so we did not venture the 4km from the highway into the town. Instead we pulled up along an old (closed) restaurant and a gas station where BC and Andrew refuelled on chocolate milk and I had a large steaming cup of hot coffee. I needed it..! We all sat outside along the curb staring out at the gas pumps and reflected on the afternoon and strategised our next 40kms. I suddenly heard a strange ‘tick, tick, tick…’ sound coming from Brendan’s bike. He also heard it and edged closer to it trying to figure out what was making the strange noise when suddenly,

BOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!

The front tire totally exploded leaving our ears ringing. Some burly looking men in leather chaps who were refuelling their Harleys at the pumps came running over to check what had happened. Brendan quickly took a closer look at the tire and the tube was totally destroyed but the tire itself seemed ok. It was a random incident but did shake everyone up a bit especially to think that it could have happened on the road. Given that we had been flying down hills at 60kms/ hour about 5 minutes earlier it could have been much more serious. It really put into perspective (yet again) how you should always be careful and you never know what might happen next.

The rest of the afternoon was much more subdued but equally fun as we had a wicked tail wind and were cruising at about 35kms/hour on relatively flat terrain. We passed through some very, very rough construction for about 10kms which ‘shook’ (literally!) everyone up a bit as the bike suddenly became a giant carbon fibre vibrating machine. The road was rough and I was a bit concerned what it was doing to my tire but upon closer inspection it was ok and survived the harrowing ride.

We passed the Hemlo gold mines as well as the Yellow Brick road which is the road to Battle Mountain Mine. The name ‘Yellow Brick Road’ is a literal name as the contractor mistakenly used gold ore instead of gravel to make the road…! I didn’t feel too much like Dorothy from the Wizard of Oz and if I had some red ruby slippers I wouldn’t be clicking my heels just yet. The scenery stayed very picturesque with tall pine trees lining the road and the rough shield was sticking out through the beds of pine needles. At times it felt as though we were cycling through a giant canyon as rocky pink and reddish coloured cliffs lined the side of the road. The sun even started to make a welcome appearance as the afternoon progressed. It seemed as though the storms and isolated showers that had been chasing us throughout the day had dissipated.

We cruised into camp at around 4pm which gave BC and Andrew enough time to get their tents etc. ready in time for their Galley Duty chores. Somehow as we cycled into camp a dark cloud managed to ‘sneak’ up on us and JUST as I put the fly on my tent the rain which we’d been avoiding all day came pouring down. I had just enough time to throw my wordly possessions into the tent and jump in after them without getting too wet. It was a lucky escape and I felt bad for all those riders who were just getting into camp and were going to end their day with wet clothes.

Northern Ontario = Mosquitoes, Black flies, Rain...

Unfortunately that wasn’t the end of the rain. The rain fell on and off in sheets throughout the evening and was joined by a campers worst enemy – mosquitoes and black flies. The mosquitoes were TERRIBLE. I have never experienced anything like it. The second you stopped moving or revealed a patch of skin it would soon be covered by a swarm of mosquitoes. The black flies immediately go for the head. They are tiny and seem to conglomerate around the base of the neck and take large ‘chunks’ of skin for their dinners leaving behind a giant itchy welt. I’ve been relatively ‘lucky’ so far (only about 5 welts). Some of those on the team have been much less fortunate and are absolutely covered in bites. The problem in some cases is also that the flies have gotten into the helmets and then have all day to have a ‘feast’.

So, it was one of our first wet and itchy evenings but Brendan and Andrew’s Galley Crew still managed to put on a feast. Burritos..! They were absolutely delicious and very much appreciated by all. A fantastic meal to end a fun day. I must admit, I am absolutely exhausted tonight from the hills, the cold, the pressure to get to camp on time etc. and am now quite happily settled inside of my tent away from the rain and away from the flies. Hopefully the weather will clear up for tomorrow as it would be nice to see a day of sun again as it seems like ages ago that we’ve had 24 hours of gorgeous weather (I think it was Thunder Bay…).

Johnny Nash - "I Can See Clearly Now..."

I can see clearly now, the rain is gone
I can see all obstacles in my way
Gone are the dark clouds that had me blind
It's gonna be a bright (bright), bright (bright)
Sun shiny day

- Johnny Nash - "I Can See Clarly Now..."

Nipigon to Terrace Bay – Day 35
113 kilometers / 70 miles

Galley Duty was made more challenging this morning because of the fact that I absolutely could not find the energy to crawl out of my sleeping bag today. It was a very cloudy morning and I had a strong suspicion that rain was imminent. Nothing is worse than Galley Duty in the rain. It is more than ‘character building’, it is soul destroying as it likely means that you will be starting the date early, leaving late and getting wet in the process. Yick..! Fortunately the rain never materialised in spite of my worries..!

We were packed up and ready to go at around 8:30 which was pretty good timing. Brendan was on turbo mode in an attempt to avoid the rain so he left early with Ian. Andrew kindly helped with the bags and the clean up which made our departure even more timely. I was a bit worried as Dave had mentioned that today was gong to be the 3rd biggest climbing day on the trip. It’s hard because I know that nothing can be ‘bigger’ than the Rockies but somehow the thought of a day of climbing is so intimidating and sometimes I am convinced that everyone builds up so many stories and rumors about the hill that you lose all perception of reality. I have decided to try my best and ignore what people say about ‘monster hills’ and try to take things more in stride.

Andrew and I started the day with a coffee at ‘Max Milk’ in Nipigon (http://www.nipigon.net/). Nipgon is a classic old Northern Ontario railway town. Visitors traveling along the 615kms stretch of Highway 11 between Cochraine and Nipigon are primarily hunters, anglers and truckers. The Lonely Planet ranks Nipigon quite high on the scale of ‘godforsakeness’.

It seemed pretty deserted and run down but the Max Milk had a group of friendly locals. The cashier asked where we were from and what we were up to and chuckled when I asked if there were humungous hills up again. Apparently we will have hills until we reach Sault Ste. Marie which is about 600kms away..! Yikes..! I powered up with a coffee and rice crispie square and a pep talk from Andrew. We volunteered to be ‘sweeps’ for the rest of the day as I was keen to take the hills slow and steady without the pressure of time.

The initial few kilometres were bumpy ones thanks to some hardcore construction and the hills that were ‘promised’ in the first few kms of the trip never really materialised…! There was one climb as we began to ascend a steep and rocky escarpment but it was certainly not impossible and throughout the climb you were rewarded with gorgeous views of Nipigon Bay. Additionally, just before the bustling metropolis of Gravel River the sun came out..! We had a pancake stop at Gravel River and enjoyed the best coffee in town (it was also the only coffee shop…!). It was already 11:30 and we’d already covered 50kms so were nearly half way. A good feeling and a reason why I like short days..!!

The rumours about the hills finally materialised around km 60 when we started some gorgeous climbs through the rocky Canadian Shield. It was surreal biking through canyon-like passes bordered on either side by tall red rock through which the road had been cut. It was one of the first times in a long time that I really had to crank my way up a hill in my smallest gear. I could feel the lactic acid building up in my legs which was a satisfying feeling (although it hurt!) but it meant I was working. It’s fascinating to feel my body becoming stronger and dealing with the ‘hell’ that I’m putting it through at the moment. The rewards are definitely becoming obvious though as my legs have so much more definition – particularly my quads and calf muscles.

We had what I think might be one of the 2nd best downhills of the trip so far today as well. After a long steep climb about 7kms out of Gravel River we had a tremendous downhill – absolutely gorgeous, fast with a wide shoulder through to Rossport. It was stunning and it felt like I was ‘at the top of the world’ as I shot like a rocket down the tarmac with a steep rocky drop to the right of the higway. The road was in great shape with a very wide shoulder so you could really enjoy the speed, the views, and the satisfaction of knowing that you really deserved that downhill particularly after what had been quite a challenging and particularly sweaty uphill. It was great to see the Rossport sign and it was a little ‘oasis’ that I didn’t expect to find after my experiences with Northern Ontario towns so far.

Rossport (http://www.rossport.ca/) is described by the Lonely Planet travel guide to Canada as “the best place on Lake Superior to do precisely nothing, in a setting reminiscent of a model miniature village, minus the kitsch, plus the quaintness.’ Rossport was a fantastic stop – it didn’t have any fast food stores, had no motels, and not even many people… what it did have was loads and loads of flowers and plenty of charm. Its population peaks at around 100 people. We had lunch at a lovely café called the Serendipity Cafe which had a view out over Lake Superior. It had a picture-book church, tiny caboose museum and a gift stop painted decoratively in bright blue. The locals were all friendly and I felt a bit like I was stepping into a picturebook. At the restaurant I dined on a fantastic Greek salad and huge glass of fresh iced tea. With the warm sun, the gorgeous views, and feeling of satisfaction of having gracefully survived the morning I was feeling pretty good..! It was one of those ‘This is precisely why I am doing this trip’ sort of hours. Laura, Tak, John and Lani also joined us and we all raved about what a fantastic day we were having so far.

At the café we met 3 cute American guys who were taking motorbikes around Lake Superior. That really appealed to me as well. The thought of seeing the views from a Harley Davidson would certainly be an exhilarating and exciting feeling – especially going ‘wide open’ (as one of the guys described it) on an open road… or an uphill. Ironically, as we got talking to them they became more interested in doing something like the TdC for their ‘annual’ trip next year. I began to consider swapping my bike for one of theirs…. Tempting..! Trek for Harley…. Hmmmm…. I wonder if I can get one with a sheepskin seat cover.

As we pulled out of Rossport the waitress mentioned that she was surprised that the rain which had been forecast had not yet materialised. Suspicious…. Sure enough, as soon as we pulled out of the café Andrew told me to look behind me which, on hindsight, wasn’t a very good idea. HUGE dark blue storm clouds blanketed the sky. Ohhhh noooo… I can’t believe that we totally relaxed for 1.5 hours in what was due to be a ‘short’ day and we were now going to pay the price by getting soaked in one of those 5 minute downpours. Those are frustratingly short and can get one frustratingly wet. Andrew and I stepped on the proverbial gas and zoomed like a rocket up and down the 20kms of hills until we reached Schreiber. All the while the clouds were picking up speed (and water) and were following us faster and faster. We arrived in Schreiber and zoomed (dry!!) into a motel café where we tucked into a big piece of pie and a warm coffee to watch the storm blow over. We were soon joined by Laura and Tak. Eating and drinking coffee was certainly a theme of the day..!

In case you were wondering, we did EVENTUALLY reach Terrace Bay (dry) where dinner was being served under a sun which had magically appeared. We quickly put up our tents and Brendan suggested dinner ‘out’ (after all, it WAS a Friday night..!) so we walked into the local restaurant in Terrace Bay adjacent to the Imperial Hotel (which had been recommended by our 3 motorcycle friends). I had an amazing, amazing GIGANTIC piece of lasagne (bringing my caloric intake to about 10,000 for the day…) and also a wonderfully cold and refreshing pint of Canadian. Brendan, Andrew and I had a laugh about the day and anticipated the following day to White Lake, a 147km ride and a hilly one at that.

Brendan and I walked the 1.5 kms back into camp whilst Andrew headed to 'The Imperial' for a few more drinks. The sky was looking rather ominous once again and just before we walked out of the restaurant we peeked at the weather channel which had a severe weather warning in effect for the area. Yikes… I had visions of the Youngstown hailstorm all over again. There was a silver lining on the cloud over our campground which, about 20 minutes later quickly disappeared as the heavens opened and the rain came down. Fortunately I was in my tent, dry and looking forward to a good, solid nights sleep…!

Rod Stewart - "Never Give Up on a Dream"

If there's doubt and you're cold,
don't you worry what the future holds.
We've gotta have heroes to teach us all
to never give up on a dream.

Claim the road, touch the sun,
no force on earth could stop you run.
When your heart bursts like the sun
never never give up on a dream.

Shadows fall, daylight dies,
freedoms never got a place to hide.
Search forever finish line
but never give up on your dream.

- Rod Stewart – Never Give Up on a Dream

Day 34: Thunder Bay to Nipigon
112 kms / 69 miles

"Dreams are made if people only try. I believe in miracles...I have to...because somewhere the hurting must stop."

- Terry Fox

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=g1HheJV-pNM

I thought that it would be relatively easy to get started fresh and early this morning given it was spectacularly beautiful weather outside (sun and blue skies!!), I had slept in a bed, and thought I was pretty much organised. I have learned however that I operate best on a routine and as soon as I am thrown out of that routine things seem to go pear-shaped. This morning was a perfect example of that. I managed to emerge from the University residence at around 7:30 after a warm shower and assumed that everyone would be taking it easy and max their time in the dorm rooms… I was totally mistaken..! I was one of the last ones to have breakfast and the initial plan of grabbing a second breakfast at the Timmy’s just down the road from the residence was tentatively put on hold. BC was in a similar boat to me as realised that his sunglasses had been lost… only to be found in the aptly named, ‘lost and found’ in the University Office… which didn’t open until 08:30. He could see the sunglasses behind the thick security glass but could not get at them. So, BC’s plans for an early departure were also delayed somewhat which inevitably made my late start less of an issue.

Ian, in all true fashion, decided to start cleaning his bike about 30 seconds before we pulled out of the parking lot… So funny. We were all like, 'Ian.............. that is why we have REST DAYS!!!'

We did eventually stop at Timmy’s (about 3 minutes from the university) where we hummed and hawed over the forecast whilst sipping coffees and gorging on donuts and breakfast sandwiches and teased Brendan about his sunglasses. Shambles.. ! The forecast wasn’t great – rain and thunder – but we hoped that it would hold off for a few more days. It was hard to get up the energy to head out and brave the traffic (and potholes) of Thunder Bay but it felt good to be on my bike again with the sun shining down on us. Bliss..! I was looking forward to today because we were going to stop at the Terry Fox Memorial.

We headed uphill out of Thunder Bay (stopping to take pictures of ‘The Sleeping Giant’) and through to the Terry Fox Memorial. The views as we headed out of the city were gorgeous – I have never been to Thunder Bay before and I must admit, it is one of the most ‘outdoorsy’ and relaxing cities that we’ve come through during the trip.

The Terry Fox Memorial - Never give up on a dream

The Terry Fox Memorial is a wonderful memorial with Terry's statue atop a long stone edifice. Terry's memorial is beautifully situated, high on a hill overlooking Lake Superior and the Canadian Shield. The memorial is engraved with the history of Terry's life as well as the emblems of each of Canada's 10 provinces and 2 territories. This is a mighty place. Because of our late start it was relatively quiet around the memorial which really helped to create a serene and powerful presence around the memorial. It was an incredibly moving moment and I could only begin to understand and relate to Terry Fox’s achievement and the strength and determination that he must have had… The miracle of Terry Fox was that he was an ordinary young man who turned his response to pain and loss into a triumph of hope and courage.

About Terry Fox

Terry Stanley "Terry" Fox, (July 28, 1958 – June 28, 1981) was a Canadian humanitarian, athlete, and cancer treatment activist. He is considered one of Canada's greatest heroes of the 20th Century.

Terry Fox was born in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada and was raised in Port Coquitlam, British Columbia. After losing his right leg at age 20 to cancer, the young athlete decided to run from coast to coast in order to raise money for cancer research. Beginning by dipping his leg in the Atlantic Ocean at St. John's, Newfoundland on April 12, 1980, aimed to dip it again in the Pacific Ocean at Vancouver, British Columbia. His pace was daunting. He ran an average of 42 km a day — the distance of a typical marathon. No one had ever done anything similar to the task Fox was undertaking.

He could not finish his run, however, as the cancer spread to his lung and he was forced to abandon the course on September 1, 1980 just north-east of Thunder Bay, Ontario after 143 days, running 5,373 km (3,339 miles) through Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, Quebec, and Ontario. A few days later, Canada's CTV network telecast an impromptu telethon to raise money for cancer research and to, in spirit, keep Fox's Marathon of Hope going. Many Canadian and Hollywood celebrities took part in the event which raised more than C$10 million.

Despite the setback, Fox wasn't ready to admit defeat, and on several occasions in the fall of 1980 there were reports that the runner might be well enough to resume his marathon.

Terry Fox died on June 28, 1981 at the age of 22, one month before his 23rd birthday. However, his Marathon of Hope captured the nation's attention. He was proclaimed a national hero, and the annual Terry Fox Run events organized all across Canada, in the United States, and in other countries around the world, have raised more than $400M for cancer research.

To find out more visit: http://www.terryfoxrun.org/
________

It was impossible not to feel overwhelmed reading the inscriptions on the Terry Fox memorial – one which especially caught my attention was:

"Dreams are made if people only try. I believe in miracles...I have to...because somewhere the hurting must stop." Terry Fox

Brendan, Andrew, Ian and I left the memorial in a state of quiet contemplation – we were all pretty quiet and we were all reflecting on the journey that we were on. I made a mental note to think about Terry Fox’ achievement next time I started to complain about the cold, my aching muscles or the rain…

We continued on route 17/11 in anticipation of the ‘major construction’ which many of the locals had warned us about. We stopped for some refreshments and another snack at a small convenience store owned and operated by a German couple and met up with Jocelyn, Ken and Kyle. This was the same convenience store which had a wonderful, rich aroma wafting from the front doors… We sat outside eating our Snickers bars wondering what smelled so good. Andrew finally made the move and went in to enquire what smelled so tasty… The owner looked a bit confused and stepped aside to reveal a newly opened can of steaming ‘Bow Wow’ dogfood… This is a fine example of how ravenously hungry we have become!!!

We continued on the road and passed some cool roadside markers showing our location relative to the 'rest of the world' near a hostel and then encountered a very rough section of construction that lasted for about 5 kilometres at around km 61 of the trip (near Pearl). It was pretty brutal – I felt as though my bike was being shaken apart and it was hard to avoid the giant potholes, rocks, and flying debris from the giant machinery and road crushers grating the road and preparing it to be paved. I feel as though I have become an expert in road-construction on this trip..!

Part of the construction was fairly easy riding as they had just ground the old asphalt and we were able to keep a steady pace. Another piece was just packed earth and stone roadbed that had just been watered down. We managed to ride on the dry side, but it was loose and at times I skidded around on my bike struggling to keep control. It wasn't helpful to have a stream of large semi-trailer trucks flying past us with their big wheels and their loose cargo. The traffic certainly wasn’t sympathetic to our light little road bikes..! I was happy when the construction had finally ended and we were able to continue on and enjoy what was relatively good pavement.

The strange thing about the rest of the journey is that we cycled it pretty uneventfully. The Cue sheet mentioned that there would be climbing past Dorion so we kept expecting things to get more difficult but they never did..! The alleged ‘climbs’ never materialised. We stopped for a break at another convenience store where I indulged in an ice-cream bar and ate half of Andrew’s 2-day old peanut butter (and jam) sandwich. Beggers can’t be choosers..!!

We were just cycling past the route 628 turn off at a fairly hefty pace when Brendan suddenly slammed on his brakes and pulled over off the road. He’d been bitten by a wasp on his ankle and is allergic to wasp stings. We kept a close eye on his ankle for about 5 minutes and washed the bite out with cold water. Fortunately BC didn’t have a reaction to it but we did keep a very close eye on him and the tall grasses and wild flowers growing along the shoulder of the road.

It was nice to pull into ‘Stillwater Tent and Trailer Park’ at around 3pm which was relatively early for our standards. I was on Galley Duty so after putting up my tent alongside a stream with BC, Andrew and Ian, I headed off to start my vegetable chopping routine. The weather was still sunny and warm but there was rain the forecast. Fortunately Galley Crew was fairly straight forward tonight and we were ready at 6pm sharp with a feast of chicken stir fry. Everyone was relaxed and happy after such an inspirational day of riding. The highlight of the trip for so many people was the Terry Fox memorial and we all reflected on how lucky we all were to have this experience and be able to do it in such good health. Terry is and will always be a true hero to Canadians.

Andrew had his ‘butt surgery’ today as well – without going into too much detail (best get the story from him) – he was forced to go under the knife on a make-shift gurney – a picnic table under the light of the setting sun by 'The DoctOr' who was decked out in his most stylish bicycle kit and latex gloves. Fortunately the doctor on the trip, Graeme, had his surgical tools (which included 2 very long, sharp needles and syringes) available and was able to go to battle with Andrew’s backside. While we are unsure whether it has actually solved the problems, it has certainly made for a few chuckles. Andrew treated himself to an icecream to battle the pain. I do feel sorry for him and am once again SO thankful that I have absolutely no ailments - I believe that this is thanks to my wooly sheepskin bicycle seat cover named Polly.

I am now sat outside of the internet room watching an approaching storm come in. The sky is a dark black and you can feel the rain in the air. There are loads of little black bugs that are starting to feast on my neck and arms so will soon turn in for the day. A wonderful and inspirational day and hard to believe that we are nearly through our journey across Canada. Tomorrow will be a big climbing day but also a day nearer to the ‘official’ half-way mark on our trip..! Hopefully the rain that is about to fall will pass during the night and leave us with sunny skies for tomorrow… If only I could be so lucky!!

Neil Young - "Helpless"

There is a town in north Ontario...

- Neil Young - "Helpless"

* apparently 'Helpless' was written by Neil Young about Thunder Bay although this is open to debate -- does anyone have the inside scoop..?? *

Wednesday, 23 July

Today was the long awaited Rest Day. Hallelujah..!!! I had looked forward to my Thunder Bay visit for what had seemed like ages.

It is so refreshing to wake up in a REAL BED (!!) and not to the sound of clinking aluminum poles, swatting sounds of people wrestling mosquitoes, and the flipping of pancakes at 5:30am. It is a real treat to wake up and NOT have to take down your wet tent and put it in a 'dry' bag. It is also a treat to get dressed vertically rather than horizontally, not to wear tap-dancing shoes and not to wear anything that makes a lycra-clad butt look about 2 inches wider because of padding. It is a delight not to waddle like a duck for more than 24 hours.. A treat not to have to use my tire levers (new source of cutlery as I 'misplaced' my knife, fork and now spoon) to eat breakfast. Ah, how I have missed 'normal life'.

Instead of the usual daily routine I had a super relaxed and chilled out morning topped off with a gentle stroll (shortcut through a ditch - thanks Brendan) to Tim Hortons with Andrew and Brendan. It was an absolutely stunning, glorious morning in Thunder Bay and I had quite a few items to check off of my checklist including cleaning my bike, catch up on my blog, and eating meat... and lots of it.

I had the usual Tim Hortons egg and bacon breakfast whilst reading the local T-Bay paper and sipping my coffee. I wish I could have stayed there forever and just relaxed for another few hours but I had a lingering vision of my filthy, slowly deteriorating bike with the very loud creeking chain etched in my memory. I got the usual lecture (yawn) from Brendan and Andrew about 'bike maintenance' and how I should take care of my little Trek but my argument is that it's only about 1 month old and shouldn't need that much TLC. They then reminded me that it's already taken me about 3,400kms across the country so I'd better take care of it..! I then realised that cleaning my bike would present a perfect opportunity to fix up my terrible tan lines...

So, about 2 hours later I found myself strategically placed in the grassy parking lot outside of Confederation College cleaning my bike (well, watching my bike being cleaned) and enjoying the lovely view whilst tanning my feet.... Canada has such nice scenery ;-) Mmmmmmm... I could get used to bike cleaning every day.

The bike cleaning was only meant to take about an hour but ended up taking most of the afternoon which was ok by me..! In a way it would have been nice to get away from the residence and actually explore the city but I ran out of time. Thunder Bay has a great outdoorsy vibe to it and I definitely intend on returning. There is loads left to see and explore.

The promise of an 'all you can eat ribs' dinner was on the agenda for the evening to finish our day in Thunder Bay. Once again I am astounded by my appetite - Andrew and I had two orders of ribs EACH AND dessert (AND a good ol'Canadian ceasar for me!). Brendan managed to vaporise a monster of an icecream dessert in about 30 seconds. We all agreed that it had been a very productive day and looked forward to the next rest day in 5 days time. Tomorrow Nipigon (a short 112 km day) was on the agenda as well as the inspirational Terry Fox Memorial.

Bruce Springsteen - "Thunder Road"

Oh-oh come take my hand
Riding out tonight to case the promised land
Oh-oh thunder road, oh thunder road oh thunder road
Lying out there like a killer in the sun
Hey I know it's late we can make it if we run
Oh thunder road, sit tight take hold
Thunder road

- Bruce Springsteen -- Thunder Road

Day 32 -- Quetico to Thunder Bay
172kms / 106 miles

Everyone was up bright and early that morning doing the usual mosquito dance over a bowl of steamy oatmeal. You can always tell that it’s going to be a long day as the tent poles start to come down at around 5am and I feel guilty about still being tucked up in my sleeping bag until about 5:45 when I emerge to ‘rise and shine’. I could tell from the little window in my tent that the sky was already bright blue and cloudless so I was in an excellent mood. I was totally looking forward to my first night in a REAL bed in over a month, a visit to the very cool metropolis of Thunder Bay AND I was going to wear my bicycle SKIRT for the first time..!. What more could I ask for. Life has become so uncomplicated (if you discount the fact that I had 172kms to bike that day). Because of the distance I decided not to risk trying a new pair of shorts so I doubled up with my ‘old faithfuls’ under my bicycle skirt with its built in bicycle shorts.

Quetico Provincial Park is actually quite beautiful and it’s a shame that due to the weather I didn’t explore it as much as I should have. The cycle out of the campground reflected the age of the forest and the diversity in the ecosystem. A lush green forest with plenty of wildlife including moose and bears.

We kick started the day with a first stop at the Arctic Watershed – the high point of land at 506 meters. West and north of the watershed water flows to the Arctic Ocean. East of the watershed, water flows to the Atlantic. It was a nice compliment to the continental divide which we saw at the border between Alberta and British Columbia just several weeks before.

As we continued to knock down the kilometres remaining until our triumphant arrival in Thunder Bay it began to get hotter and the terrain began to get more difficult. Lots of climbing and lots of rolling hills which provided plenty of excuses for water stops and Snickers stops. The scenery was stunning as we passed numerous lakes with the early morning steam rising up into the blue sky. We stopped for a refuel of food and water at km 57 – the service area of Kashabuwie – my stop was about 10 minutes shorter than everyone elses as I took a wrong turn about 50 meters from where I was supposed to turn and ended up crossing a railroad track, climbing a gravel hill and arriving at a lake and a shop selling fishing tackle… only to be told that ‘the group of cyclists are at the shop on the main road’. Oops.

After the rest stop we continued on until we reached Shabaqua Corners which presented a new challenge. Insane, insane heavy and fast moving traffic. There was a very, very narrow shoulder and quite hilly with non-stop traffic. As the industry in the area is predominantly pulp and paper, many of the huge long trucks are stacked with wood – either long, fresh logs or processed lumber. Either way, the trucks carrying the wood are HUGE and they barrel down the road with little room to manouver around a little cyclist. It is a harrowing experience which Brendan compared to ‘Star Wars’ and being attacked by the giant robots and trying to dodge out of their way.

We had been warned by James, a TdC vet, that a MONSTER of a hill awaited us at km 121 so at our lunch break at Shabaqua Corners there was a sense of nervousness and urgency in the air. Because of the time change it was getting late (3pm) and we still had 50kms to cycle on a road with heavy traffic and predominantly uphill. We had a huge lunch at a gas station where I found out that I am indeed lactose intolerant (there is no way that I can ever drink chocolate milk again…! Sniff sniff..!). It was getting hotter and I was keen to get the monster hill over with and get to Thunder Bay as soon as possible.

We then turned on to an insanely busy highway 11/17 with giant lumber trucks barrelling down on us. It’s scary when you are concentrating so hard on staying on a 10cm wide shoulder when you hear the rumbling of a trucks breaks coming up behind you… this is then followed by the constant zoom…. Zoom… zoom of the cars which also pass. It was a bit of a harrowing section of highway with some steep climbs but still enjoyable. The shoulder was pretty much non-existent in spots so we had to be on ‘high alert’ and be especially aware of everything going on in front, beside and behind the bike.

Once my stomach finished ‘digesting’ my chocolate milk and chilli lunch things became much easier (I have learned my lesson and have sworn off chocolate milk as a recovery drink now that I am certain I’m lactose intolerant). A much needed rest stop at Kakabeka Falls broke up the afternoon perfectly with 30kms left to go. Unfortunately we lost Brendan and the rest of the crew with the little side trip. The Falls were great with some nice views of the river and it was easy to imagine the challenges which faced early settlers when they came upon the falls in the middle of their early portage routes..! Whilst we were getting ready to get back on our bikes after the short break we met two guys from near Windsor who are biking across Canada to raise money for chrones and coilitis (website….) Super nice guys and it would have been great to sit down with them and compare notes. They were doing the trip in 90 days on bikes weighing in at about 100 lbs including gear. Pretty hardcore..!

The final kms into Thunder Bay were a breeze thanks to a quiet and beautifully paved smooth and consistent shoulder on Oliver Road. Ian kept Andrew and I laughing throughout the ride. The great thing about Ian’s riding ability is that he is an incredibly strong rider but doesn’t realise it which sometimes greatly affects the efficiency of our paceline.

I was so worried that the arrival in Thunder Bay was going to be like our arrival in Kenora – totally hilly with our final stop miles away – but I was wrong. It was a lovely easy ride through the Oliver Road subdivision, a right turn onto the rough and crumbling Thunder Bay main road and then there we were – our home away from home – civilisation – the Confederation College residences..!! I was sooo happy to see the truck surrounded by a bright array of tents drying in the hot early evening sun. Andrew, Ian and I all agreed that it had been a long but enjoyable ride. I was pleased that we finished it together.

That night Brendan, Andrew, Dave, Terry and I went out to dinner for steak at a fantastic steak restaurant recommended locally. I had a 12 oz New York Steak AND a gigantic slab of cheesecake…The feast was then followed by a few beers in the pub with the French Connection and a few others at 'On Deck'. Lots of fun and loads of laughs. It’s great to all chill out and enjoy the evening before the Rest Day knowing that you don’t have to get up super early in the morning to a damp tent..!.

Bicycle Skirt…

My bicycle skirt performed brilliantly throughout the day – I did receive a few honks from passing trucks and put it down to my stylish riding gear and not to the fact that I was taking up too much space in the lane… It was however rather restricting and I was surprised at how it seemed much less comfortable than I’d originally hoped. I originally put it down to the fact that I am getting ‘tree trunk legs’ and can no longer fit into a ‘small’ pair of bicycle shorts. Upon closer inspection at around 5pm at a Rest Stop I discovered that not only did I have the ‘shorts’ part of my bicycle skirt on inside out, but I also had them on backwards!! This explained why they were so tight, restricting and uncomfortable throughout the day. These are the types of incidents that I should learn to keep quiet… Unfortunately, I have yet to learn from my mistakes and told Ross who announced it to the entire group and I was awarded the ‘turkey’ to commemorate and celebrate my stupidity. It is the TdC 2008 version of the ‘Darwin’ award.

Van Morrison - "And it Stoned Me"

Half a mile from the county fair
And the rain came pourin' down
Me and Billy standin' there
With a silver half a crown
Hands are full of a fishin' rod
And the tackle on our backs
We just stood there gettin' wet
With our backs against the fence

Oh, the water
Oh, the water
Oh, the water
Hope it don't rain all day

- Van Morrison - "And it Stoned Me"

Taylors Cove – Quetico Provincial Park
154 kms / 95 miles

Because we got in late last night this morning was a bit of a write-off for several reasons – my wet clothes were still scattered around the campground from the previous evening, I was absolutely exhausted because we were out ‘late’, and woke up super early as many people were getting an early start because the day ahead was a 157km day which is on the long side so an early start is the best way to get a headstart on the day.

I did manage to pull out of camp relatively early at around 7:15am (action plan for mosquito avoidance) and we were immediately into the hills. We had previewed some of the route by truck the previous evening when Cullen had driven us to the Pow Wow so I knew what to expect which was nice. It did make the morning go by a bit more quickly so it was a relatively fast 30kms into Mine Centre where we were told to stock up on food and water as this would be the last opportunity for ‘services’ for the next 60kms...! Yikes..! Fortunately the Mine Centre grocery store / gas station was well stocked with butter tarts, fresh coffee and plenty of chocolate bars and water as we all fueled up for the coming long morning ahead. Man, did I ever need that coffee - I was feeling very sluggish and tired.

The terrain was similar to the end of the previous day which I had cycled in the rain coming out of Fort Frances – relatively hilly with pine trees on either side of the road and then every 10kms or so, a view of a stunning, picturesque lake which reflected the blue sky and fluffy white clouds. I am getting used to the hills and am using the strategy similar to my ‘wind’ strategy – the less you think about the hills, the easier it gets. This way you are not daunted by the sight of yet another hill after you’ve just finished climbing one – they are never ending and broken up by bends in the road which zig zags around the lakes. It’s clear that there has been an abundance of rain over the past few weeks as all of the ‘put out your fires’ signs indicate there is a low risk of forest fires and the vegetation is very, very lush. The mosquitoes also seem to be on stereroids thanks to the perfect conditions the moisture provides for their breeding grounds. That morning they were pretty insane and I think I burned about 1000 calories in the first hour that I was up I was swatting them so furiously and frequently.

I cycled out of Mine Centre on my own for the first time this trip. I really enjoy biking with Brendan, Andrew and Ian (my usual partners in crime) but today we all got separated and it was hard to stay together because of the hills. Sometimes it’s nice to go at your own pace and get through it. I made it through the 60kms without too many problems and ate 3 peanut butter sandwiches and 2 chocolate bars in the process. It was actually quite a relaxing and enjoyable 60kms in spite of the slightly challenging terrain.

Just outside of a small town called Atikokan I stopped at a ‘Tourist Information Booth’ to escape from some rain drops which were dropping far too heavily from an overhanging cloud that didn't seem to disappear. The stop was meant to be a short one but soon the fine art of procrastination began. I had a Pepsi and then started to read the brochures about Quetico Provincial Park and then some of the French Connection showed up…I decided to do my nails, apply some lipgloss, reapply sunscreen… and during this time the clouds got darker and darker and thicker and thicker… and they started to surround Atikokan and the tourist booth. I thought I was playing my cards pretty cleverly by leaving about 1.5 hours later (I can’t believe I spent so much time at the rest stop trying to avoid the rain..!!) and sure enough, I hadn’t made it more than about 500 meters away from the rest area when suddenly the heavens opened and the torrential downpour began. It was the same game as the previous day – I got absolutely, completely and utterly soaked to the point where my shoes were sloshing. I just handled it a bit better this time (if you don’t count the 1.5 hour wait to avoid the rain). The only benefit to rain is that when it rains, the wind eases off which does make life a bit more bearable.

I thought I was going to arrive into camp hours after everyone but surprisingly everyone had been caught out in the rain and were running late. The campsite was a bit chaotic with people running half naked to and from the washing machines and dryers, the rich scent of Deet / Muskol in the air, tents set up in the mud, the Galley Crew busy setting up their stoves. The final 3 kilometers into Quetico Provincial Park (to where our campsite was) was actually meant to be a gravel road (by now it was mud!) so many people were also busy cleaning their bikes.

The park campground is nice – lots of pine trees and 4 relatively large grassy sites where we have all distributed our tents. It’s a huge campground so whilst we’re near to the lake I can hardly see it but it was too rainy to venture out there anyway. Even now as I sit in my tent I can hear the moisture dripping off of the trees and onto the shell. I can also hear loud snoring which makes me think that tent placement will have to be a bit more strategic in the future. The good news is that most people on the plot we’re sharing are not uber early risers so hopefully I will get a full nights rest. The exciting news is that we’re staying in dorm rooms tomorrow evening in Thunder Bay which means BEDS!!! I can get dressed vertically rather than horizontally..!! So exciting..!

It’s amazing how small things are such pleasures at the moment – I have become so easy to please…! Just as long as I can avoid the rain ;-)

Billy Bragg & Wilco - "California Stars"

I'd like to rest my heavy head tonight
On a bed of California stars
Id like to lay my weary bones tonight
On a bed of California stars...

- Billy Bragg & Wilco - "California Stars"

Caliper Lake – Taylor’s Cove
128 kms / 79 miles

As I opened the flap to my tent that morning I immediately noticed that the shell of my tent was dry. I recall from previous camping trips that dry tent in the morning is a sure sign of rain. Ross subsequently coined the phrase:

“Dry tent in the morning, bikers take warning…”

I looked at the sky and sure enough, it was looking rather grey and ominous. Having said that, I slept wonderfully well and felt ready to ‘face’ the rain… even to go so far as to embrace it…. I am trying so hard to be more tolerant and not to let the weather affect my mood even though this is sometimes a challenge. I was speaking with Michael about meditation and how through meditation you learn to become ‘one’ with the world around you so perhaps my newfound love for rain will be the first test of my meditating abilities…

I didn’t have too much breakfast as I am not a huge fan of potatoes in the morning but did manage to devour a huge bowl of oatmeal and was ready to hit the road very early compared to the previous day’s 9am start. Brendan and I pulled out of Caliper Lake at around 7:15am and made very good time throughout the morning. In spite of feeling a bit lethargic we managed to keep a good pace over the 60kms to Emo. The landscape here is slightly hilly with some long bends but still relatively flat. The road is now surrounded on both sides by forests and some fields. Many of the areas we cycle through are land from the First Nations.

By the time we reached Emo, the sky had turned an ominously grey color and lightning was seen to flash off in the distance. I must admit, I was watching the storm during my last 30kms into Emo and this did help in considerably increasing my speed as I tried to ‘out bike’ the storm in an effort to stay dry as long as possible. A quick ‘refueling’ stop was made at the Emo Esso station and we decided to meet again for food in Fort Frances which was another 30 kms down the road. By this point the rain had begun to fall and I put on my rain gear whilst Brendan and Andrew sped off ahead. My strategy worked as by the time I had put the rain gear on it had nearly stopped raining..! So, off came the layers again (another excuse for a pit stop).

The 30kms into Fort Frances (pop. 9000) went quite quickly and I passed the 20-or-so-odd chain restaurants (Dairy Queen, Burger King, Pizza Hut etc.) which welcome you into Fort Frances and finally caught up with Andrew and Brendan at Tim Hortons where they were devouring one of the daily specials. Devouring is the key word here – it took about 9 minutes from walking into Timmy’s to walking out with a stomach full of chili, a roll, a donut, and a coffee including a debrief from Brendan and Andrew on the road conditions and fitness update. We were hoping for an easy 30km finish into Taylors Cove. During this discussion (between bites of chili and gulps of coffee) I could not help but notice that the sky was becoming darker and darker and that the giant rain cloud that Brendan had bet me 5$ wouldn’t hit us back in Emo was getting dangerously close to Fort Frances.

Andrew and Brendan sped off to beat the rain and I finished digesting my donut and readjusting my bicycle shorts before hopping on my saddle ready to tackle the final kilometers into camp. I hadn’t gone more than about .02kms when it started to rain… and rain… and rain… and rain.. and rain. I was saturated… actually I was more than saturated – I was super saturated even before I had the chance to put on any sort of rain gear. I’ve realized that the thing I hate most about being wet is the feeling of ‘getting’ wet when the rain slowly starts to trickle down the back of your neck and down into your shirt… when it streams down from your legs into your socks and when it sprays up from the road and into your shoes leaving you with sopping wet feet which make a ‘slosh, slosh, slosh’ sound with every turn of the pedals.

I had assumed by Brendan’s ‘hard core’ talk between chews at Tim Hortons that he had sped off ahead and was furiously peddling his way through the torrential rain and thunder and lightening so I squinted my eyes and clenched my teeth and created bike size tidal waves against the tsunamis from the passing trucks. It got to the point where it was raining so hard that I could hardly see and it was like I was cycling through a 30km puddle that used to be a road. The most ironic thing about the entire trip is that I was cycling along a lovely, picturesque lake called, ‘Rainy Lake’. The god of weather clearly has a sense of humor…

I was so soaking wet after a few minutes that there was no real point in stopping as I’d only get cold so I went the final 30kms in the pouring rain and didn’t stop until I reached the Taylors Cove sign and turned in. Of course, this is precisely when the rain subsided and I coasted down the muddy drive to reach a gorgeous lake bordered by a white lodge / patio with some boat docks jutting out from the coastline. To my surprise, Andrew, Erik and Peter were the only ones there…!! I’d even beat Brendan but had no idea where he hid from the storm as I certainly hadn’t passed him. It was only 1:45pm and I was already in camp – hooray!

Over the course of the next 2 hours everyone arrived (including Brendan who had found shelter during the storm with Gary who wards off rain) and set up their tents along the waters edge. Over the course of that same 2 hours the rain and cloud TOTALLY disappeared to reveal a gorgeous clear blue sky and blazing sun. The lake is gorgeous – clean and swimmable. The water we drink actually comes directly from the lake..! I went for a fantastic swim and crossed the lake twice – it felt great to stretch some different muscles and feel the virtual weightlessness being in the water. Swimming seems to take so much less effort and energy than cycling. The weather also cleared up to reveal an absolutely gorgeous summers evening. It was total ‘cottage country’ feel. Bliss..! I was so relaxed and happy and felt so nice and clean after the swim and shower and the warmth of the sun.

A delicious meal of pasta and peanut butter and chocolate squares was prepared and presented by the Galley Crew. Yum..!

As I sat on a rock by the waters edge Brendan approached me and said, ‘I am going to ask you a question and you have about 5 seconds to give me an answer. There is a pow wow tonight on one of the reserves and Cullen is going and has asked us to come along – are you in..?’ It took less than 1 second to make up my mind and I was in the truck in about 3 seconds. It was so exciting to get ‘out of camp’ and into an actual truck and see something different…! Andrew, Brendan, Cullen, Jocelyn and I all went and it was such a fantastic evening.

I’ve been to a few pow-wows in Moraviantown as well as in my high school where we had an annual pow wow. It had been a long time since I’d been and it was a fantastic experience, particularly for Brendan, Andrew and Jocelyn who had never been to one. When we arrived the sun had just begun to set which cast a gorgeous glow over the grounds. We were the only tourists and everyone seemed to be dressed up in their traditional costumes with the drums slowly beating from within the pavilion. We explored the grounds a bit and found a nice spot on one of the bleachers and watched the dancing. The first dance was the Grand Entry where the chiefs came in followed by the men and then the women. The men wore beautiful feather headdresses and long colorful outfits adorned with eagle feathers and beads and intricately beaded boots and some carried hammer-like objects also covered with feathers. The women wore ‘jingle dresses’ which are relatively simple dresses which are covered in silver ‘bells’ which jingle as they walk. It was a lovely sight and some, especially the men, really got into their dancing. There were 7ish drums and ‘Nations’ which took turns playing from within the Pavilion. Some songs were fast whilst others were slow and the intensity of the dancing reflected the rhythm and beat of the music. It was a surreal sight under the shadow of the setting sun and a bright sky filled with millions of stars.

The spectators were all doing a dance of their own – the mosquito swatting dance. It must have been a pow wow for the mossies as they were super aggressive and did nothing but attack and feast from the moment we arrived to the moment we left at around 10:30pm. As I was wearing shorts my legs were ravaged by them and did nothing but itch and do my best to try and stay awake during the journey back to the campsite. We all commented what a fantastic day it had been – eating, biking (in sun and rain), swimming, canoeing, and then ending the day with a Pow Wow..!