Introduction...

Many people have said that the ‘Tour du Canada’ is a “journey and not a destination”. The past 2.5 months has been a journey of many respects. It has been physical journey as I regularly climbed on my bike and over the course of 72 days migrated from west to east over 7,500 kilometers of Canada’s vast geographic expanse - from the Pacific to the Atlantic. It has also been an emotional and, dare I say it, ‘spiritual’ journey. A journey through which I feel I have ‘discovered’ Canada and come to better understand how I fit into the social and cultural geography of a country for which I long proudly claim citizenship but hardly knew.


Jul 16, 2008

Frank Sinatra - "My Way"

Yes, there were times, I'm sure you knew
When I bit off more than I could chew.
But through it all, when there was doubt,
I ate it up and spit it out.
I faced it all and I stood tall;
And did it my way...


- Frank Sinatra - "My Way"

Portage la Prairie to Beausejour - 157 kms / 97 miles

I’m absolutely exhausted but feel the need to get my ‘true’ feelings down tonight before falling into a very deep sleep. I’m worried that if I wait to type it all out tomorrow that I will have romanticised it..! I think that everyone else is as tired as I am as there is a choir of snoring going on around me. In fact, I think that I am surrounded…. And I also hear thunder off in the distance. It will be a long night…

Today was hard work on many levels – physically, mentally and emotionally. I was on Galley Duty and was up and out by 6am. The coffee was already on and the early risers were knee-deep in peanut butter and brown bread. As much as I dread Galley Duty I do actually enjoy it and really like my team. It’s nice to work together and now that we’ve done it a few times we are starting to have a routine going. By the end of the trip we’ll have it down to a 25 minute clean up..!

Dave was working his magic on turning the apple fritters into ‘appelflappen’ (or apple pancakes). I test drove the first batch and with the addition of some syrup they were… edible and surprisingly tasty.

Weather Obsession...

It’s amazing how obsessed I’ve become with the weather. I kept my eye on the sky throughout breakfast – it was partially sunny and there were some dark clouds looming off in the distance. I recalled the sailors expression “pink sky in the morning, sailors take warning”. Brendan, aka, “The Weatherman”, had consulted the trusty blackberry for an update on the weather and it didn’t look to promising – 80 % chance of rain for Portage AND Beausejour. Yikes. It might not be a very ‘beau sejour’ ce jour. Terry also consulted the weather on a different website… and got a semi-decent report of ‘mix of sun and clouds’. As Brendan has been right about 99.9% of the time on the weather front, I decided that I’d trust his near perfect track record and packed my bright pink rain jacket, blue rain pants. I felt a bit like the ‘Rainbow Bright’ cartoon character but didn’t care – function over fashion..! (I never thought I’d say that!)

Everyone was and running around trying to prepare themselves for the inevitable. It’s hard when you know that you have a long day ahead and that you will likely spend most of it wearing damp / soaking clothing and sopping wet shoes. What’s worse, many products that are ‘Gore Tex’ are waterproof to an extent but there comes a point when your own sweat builds up inside the jacket which is just as bad as the water bouncing off of the outer shell.

Background to 'diva-esque qualities' - not one of my finer traits...

I feel that I had best mention my absolute hate for being wet from rain (if it is not apparent already!). I can handle a lot – cold, wind, snow, heat… but rain and I simply do not mix. I just can’t stand it.

I’m not sure where it comes from but have some guesses – possibly my Grade 2/3 phase when it wasn’t cool to wear snow pants in the winter… so I spent many afternoons in elementary school in soaking wet wool leotards under freezing cold wet jeans after recesses of sledding. The thought of it still makes me shudder. This feeling of discomfort was exacerbated during the summers when I was between the ages of 10 – 15. I decided to make a bit of ‘summer cash’ corn detasseling. For those ‘city slickers’ reading this, corn has to be detassled so it doesn't pollinate itself. The detassling itself consists of walking up and down rows of corn for eight hours a day, doing nothing but popping the tassels (potentially the ‘yellow’ things) out of the corn and dropping them on the ground. If you've ever seen a row of corn, you'll find some rows that are kilometers long and the corn itself can be five to eight feet tall. Imagine eight to twelve hours a day, “pop, pop, pop” in the scorching heat and humidity of a South Western Ontario summer, sweating, sneezing, itching and twitching and getting "corn rash" from brushing against the damp to dry leaves, for about three weeks... at around 5 dollars/ hour. Nothing, nothing is worse than plodding through a soaking wet corn field, knee deep in mud, reaching up to get the butts out of corn that should have been pulled about a week earlier… and then wearing the same wet clothes all day in the high humidity.. with a bunch of smelly teenagers. Yick. But that is the character-building nature of small-town rural life in SWO.

SO, biking in the rain goes right up there on the list of things that I can’t stand. Call me a ‘Diva’, ‘Princess’ or ‘Your Highness’ – whatever... When I signed up for TdC I knew I couldn’t get away with a full 72 days without rain. SO, on this particular day I tried my very best not to complain and appreciate the fact that I’d been lucky to get this far staying relatively dry. The good thing is that everyone has the same feeling but some people just handle it better than others. And unfortunately I don’t handle it very well.

The rain basically started as we were loading the bags into the truck (part of our Galley Duty duies). Andrew, Brendan and Ian were total sweethearts again (they are so patient with me!!) and came back from their Tim Hortons 2nd breakfast to help load the bags into the truck.

If the rain wasn’t bad enough, about 5 kms into our already damp ride the wind started… from the wrong direction..!! I was not only dealing with rain but also wind from the east. Two completely new phenomena for me on this trip. It was soooooo incredibly uncomfortable and I was sooooo incredibly not happy about it and for the first time on the trip NEARLY had a ‘moment’. The boys shot up ahead with the French Connection who are strong enough to cycle through a hurricane and I stayed back to have a proper ‘fist in the air’ tantrum at the wind and the rain. I will state from the outset that I didn’t cry but was about as borderline as I’ve been yet on this trip.

It took about 3 minutes before the water soaked through my clothes and I was so cold. When the rain stopped it still felt like it was raining as the ‘damp’ was rising up from the flat fields so it was very steamy and humid. The clouds also seemed to go on forever so it was pretty clear that this was not going to be a ‘let’s sit and wait this one out’ type of shower. It was a ‘suck it up buttercup’ type of shower that would inevitably continue on for most of the day. Andrew waited for me and gave me a bit of a pep talk which was pretty brave of him. It’s nice that someone can put up with my moods even though he refers to me as 'Driving Miss Daisy'..!!

We had one of our first stops about 49kms into the ride at Marquette. Marquette is a very small town next to a busy rail line with one lovely little family-run restaurant (looks a bit like a bungalow) which we invaded and steamed up. The eggs were already frying on the stove by the time we walked in and there was a huge pot of fresh coffee brewing. Everyone was tired and uncomfortable but chuckled at the mess of it all. What a dreadful morning and what a frustrating headwind. I was pleased that I was not the only one that was struggling. I devoured toast, eggs, bacon and hashbrowns washed down with a few cups of coffee – a second breakfast has become a bit of a normality for me these days. The problem with the second breakfast however is that it’s so incredibly hard to get up from the second breakfast and get back on your bike. There is always that temptation to get that extra caffeine injection and stay for one more cup… and the locals in these small town are so friendly and chatty and the diners are always so warm..!

If it was up to me I would have stayed at the restaurant and offered to help with dishes, feed the cat, wash the floor, clean the bathroom… make more coffee… cook…. ANYTHING but Andrew sent me back on my bike – I sometimes feel like he is a Russian trainer and is gearing me up for a lifetime of cycling. I felt a tiny, tiny bit better as had changed from my wet and cold cycling jersey to a dry wool shirt that Andrew had lent me. It was a life saver as the next 30kms – although equally challenging – were at least done in a warm, dry bit of clothing..! By the time we hit Warren (incidentally, a wrong turn) the rain had subsided a bit so we popped into a convenience store for a drink… only to exit about 5 minutes later to dark clouds and a torrential downpour. We were able to wait it out for about 15 minutes and continued on our way into the headwind. I was damp and uncomfortable but not soaking wet… and that was definitely a positive. On the negative side however was the fact that the headwind was definitely getting stronger and my patience with it was wearing a little bit thin…. I was peddling as hard as I could and only going about 11kms / hour… ugh. It was definitely not one of my finer moments.

Strawberry farms and Skinners World Famous Footlong Hot Dog

The rest of the day was equally difficult but I somehow found my sense of humour – many thanks to Andrew, Ian and Dennis for that..! We made several pit stops which included a visit to a locally run strawberry farm just outside of Stonewall (many thanks to the locals for the free strawberries..!) and then again at a fabulous ‘hot dog shop’ just outside of Lower Fort Gary. Unfortunately due to the wind and rain we didn’t have time to make a tourist stop to Lower Fort Gary which is famous as the oldest stone fur trading post still intact in North America. Costumed interpreters will take you back to the mid-1800s as they re-enact events of the early days of this Hudson's Bay Company post. Stone walls encircle the fort's enclosure, the largest group of original 19th century fur trade buildings in Canada.

Instead of an educational stop at Fort Gary we stopped at the gastronomic haven of “Skinners” – the home of the world famous foot long hot dog. It was a perfect, much needed break in the afternoon. What a find..!! Skinners is a 1950s style diner with black and white checkerboard laminate flooring, juke boxes at every booth and a hotdog menu that took about 5 minutes to scroll through AND floor to ceiling photos of hockey legends – primarily from the 1950s. I was so hungry and managed to eat a monster-sized hot dog in about 20 seconds… topped off by a mint chocolate chip ice cream. We all sat in the booths with long, tired faces and wet feet and had a good laugh whilst ‘Golden Oldies’ played on the juke box. It was so hard to get up and back on the bike to continue our journey into the wind and into Beausejour.

When we pulled into ‘tent city’ in the town of Beausejour http://www.townofbeausejour.com/info/category/news/, dinner was in its first wave – a delicious pasta dish with loads of salad. A dark sky with huge grey clouds hovered over the campsite and it wasn’t long before the heavens opened and the rain came pouring down. A huge, huge, thank you to BC and the French Connection for putting up my tent for me…! I have never been stressed out about putting up my tent (it’s a bit of a fine art but I have it down to about 3 minutes solo). BUT, having said that, the total luxury of having it done for me for a change was an incredible treat. It was exactly what I needed after 8.5 hours of time spent in the saddle..!!

So, now it’s about 11pm and the rain is once again coming down by the bucketload. Fortunately I am now in my tent, dry, and praying that it is more waterproof than my jacket today. Fingers crossed that it clears up to reveal a gloriously sunny day ahead...

Whilst it was not ‘beau ce jour’ hopefully it will be more ‘beau demain jour’…!

4 comments:

Hans said...

Ah yes you have discovered my eternal debate when it comes to gore-tex. It's great when I'm hanging out in the rain but when you're working in the rain and building up a sweat I always have to ask myself "Would I rather get soaked from my own sweat or would I rather get soaked from the rain?" Keep on, well, biking!

Hans

Inky Fingers said...

Hanoi Heath and the rain ..and no tantrum!!
My oh my that cycling is certainly making a difference!

Hope the hair was not too frizzy dahhling xxx

Hanoi J x

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the memories as you share your marvellously special Trip, Heather. R-weekly now has your writings for all!! Sundance Balloon Ride, July 18;A+++ lift-off,landing, & sights(Green Ln not included).Good luck, safe & joyous cycling for all.

Both of Us

Leslie Jane Moran said...

Oh Heather, Contessa......

I can feel the rain and the cold! I too hate being wet and I hate being cold and the combination is dreadful. Bravo to you for slogging through it all....sans tears too! Your next tune can be "Big Girls Don't Cry"...by Fergie...it's my ring tone! I'm still pulling for you and have you safely tucked in my blanket on all those misery days! GO GIRL!