Introduction...

Many people have said that the ‘Tour du Canada’ is a “journey and not a destination”. The past 2.5 months has been a journey of many respects. It has been physical journey as I regularly climbed on my bike and over the course of 72 days migrated from west to east over 7,500 kilometers of Canada’s vast geographic expanse - from the Pacific to the Atlantic. It has also been an emotional and, dare I say it, ‘spiritual’ journey. A journey through which I feel I have ‘discovered’ Canada and come to better understand how I fit into the social and cultural geography of a country for which I long proudly claim citizenship but hardly knew.


Jun 26, 2008

Tom Petty - "Into the Great Wide Open"


Into the great wide open,
Under them skies of blue
Out in the great wide open,
A rebel without a clue


- Tom Petty - "Into the Great Wide Open"
Merritt - Pritchard - 147 kms / 91 miles

We were a bit slow off the mark this morning thanks to a huge, huge pancake breakfast. A perfect way to start the chilly and incredibly windy 13 degree morning. A heavy wind had picked up that night and was blowing its way though the camp making tent-folding a significantly more complicated task than it should normally be..!

The route for the day had been provided to us on the Cue Sheets and there were two routes – both around 145kms but one bypassing Kamloops and the other going straight through it (with an uphill..!). We did the bypass as it followed the river and promised to be much more scenic.

As soon as we began to leave Merritt we realized just how much the very heavy tail wind was helping us along… it was so strong that we hardly had to peddle at all..! At one stage I tried drafting behind Brendan and then I literally could completely stop spinning and let the wind push me along the 5A highway into Kamloops.

Over the subsequent 70kms of highway the mountains became much less rugged and the pine tree cover soon gave way to scrub grasses and rolling hills. In the valley there were loads of farms and hay fields straddled by giant silver irrigation systems and John Deere tractors. As we continued on the hills seemed to continue to ‘fold’ and they became rounder and more rolling as we rode through the valleys and around the cold grey lakes. The colors of the bright purple and yellow mountain flowers, the cottonwoods and tumbleweed set against the olive-green hills were incredibly striking. I felt like I was walking straight out of the set of a John Wayne movie..! The wind continued to push us along and the sky clouded over with some huge striking clouds that seemed to threaten rain but never deliver (thank goodness..!).
Prior to leaving camp there was a rumor that there was a cinnamon bun stop at the Quilchena Hotel so, of course, even though we’d eaten 4 pancakes each for breakfast we decided to stop. The hotel was gorgeous and completely redone in its original Victorian style from 1908 when it was originally established during the rugged days of cattle ranching. It now serves as a restaurant, a bar and a hotel. One could almost hear the cowboy boots from years gone by clump across the floor in the wood paneled saloon. The bullet holes in the bar area memorial to wilder times when the Legendary Outlaw the Grey Fox (Bill Miner) was held at the hotel.

A lovely setting and I can imagine it would be a fantastic venue – especially if their coffee and cinnamon buns were anything to go by..! Soooo good. After that snack it was difficult to get back on our bikes again but fortunately the wind once again pushed us along.

Just before our turnoff we noticed a group of TdC cyclists gathered around a truck. We stopped and found out that it was one of the 2006 TdC veterans who had scoped out our route and waited for us to arrive so he could provide us with cold water, granola bars, cookies etc. It was so awesome – he had even made a sign which said, ‘Tour du Canada Rest Stop’..! One thing I’ve really noticed is the loyalty that all the TdC vets show. Even on our first night in Merritt another vet from the 2006 year stopped by with cold beer and to find out how things were going. It is fantastic to hear such glowing reviews and notice how the vets all say, ‘it was awesome’ as their eyes glaze over and their minds race back to the sense of freedom and anticipation that each day on the TdC tour delivered. It’s nice to know that there is such a strong support group as it makes the long days shorter and the tough climbs easier – after all, the pain goes away but the sense of achievement will last forever..!

After the snack we said our goodbyes and headed down a gravel route to bypass Kamloops. Another gorgeous route past huge cattle and horse ranches with lovely homes set against a backdrop of rolling hills. It seems like another planet when one thinks of the hustle and bustle of Oxford Street in London..! It was a bit tricky on the gravel with a road bike especially as the terrain was quite hilly but it was totally manageable if taken slowly. It would have been fantastic to have tried it on my mountain bike..!

I had an interesting experience along this route – whist cycling I suddenly felt a strange pain in my side that felt like a cramp of some sort but then felt something a bit more – movement… like wings against my skin under my t-shirt. I suddenly realized that I’d been stung by a bee and that the bee was still in my shirt..!! Fortunately I am not allergic to bee stings and it scared me (and Andrew who thought I was having a heart attack) more than it actually hurt. Yikes..!

We ended the day on another totally Canadian link – the Trans Canada Highway..!! The shoulder on the Trans Canada was great – wide, smooth and paved so made for an excellent 40kms ride into camp.
The only problem is that my right knee is starting to act up as I’ve been pushing rather than spinning up the hills. I have to make a mental note to take things a bit easier tomorrow and work on my 'spinning'.

A wonderful dinner was served by the Galley Crew and dessert was my favourite – chocolate rice crispie squares!! Mmmmm….!

Another great day – the longest one yet and once again full of all of the very best that Canada has to offer..!


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